Starter Just Clicks When Trying To Start?!

I just recently did a top end gasket replacement because the head gasket blew, and now im having a problem. Im sure I put everything back together the same way it came off, but i just bought this thing and the wiring is all over the place. Im thinking it might be a ground issue because before I did the gaskets, the starter was working just fine so I know its not the starter. Maybe a relay blew? Not exactly sure, but if someone can help me out it would be great! THANKS!!

Ok simple things ground wires from battery to engine and subframe good?Next I would simply tap the starter with a hammer and then retry starting.If it fires up and runs then retry this several times after with some between.If it fails and just clicks take to auto zone or advance for a bench test.The solenoid may just have a dead spot and even bench testing does not always find this.If it passes the several bench test and or hit/miss I would just replace this with a new part.As long as your battery and alternator are solid with at least 12.0-12.5 volts it should start.These are low #s but it will run.Solenoids are prone to fail before the actual starter in a lot of cases and just buy a new starter not a solenoid alone(bad buy imo) for reasons your using a new part with a old worn one.Hope this helps and I go buy a new starter literally every 5 yrs bc the aftermarket ones last about that long from most stores seriously.I have over the last 15 years replaced mine 3 times due to yeah dead spots or click,click or nothing to start.

Alright cool thanks!

1. Measure the voltage across the battery as you try to start and starter clicks. Should deliver at least 9.6 volts a few seconds into the attempt to start.

2. Attempt jump start from a running vehicle.

Because it's most likely your battery, and not delivering enough power under load. How long was the battery sitting while you did this work? Take it in for free check out at auto parts store. 90% of such issues are battery-related, assuming that all your connections are good and clean. Take off the connectors at the starter and really clean them good and shiny.

Battery voltage while NOT under load can only tell if battery is bad at 10 volts or less, a reading of 12 doesn't tell you its condition under load.

Ok ya ill try that as soon as I can close up this stupid tube that comes off of my header. Couldnt get the nut loose off the header that connects around to the intake for what im guessing is for emissions. I cant figure out how im going to re-attach that tube because i cant fully weld around it, and i cant crimp it for anything. Ive heard of people capping it off with a lug nut or what ever, but i think that was for 2200 and not for 2000. I would try starting it but im really not trying to blow a valve. I just noticed it wasn't turning over because i put the key in and tried to crank it over just to see what it would do after I put everything back together. Heres the link to my other post about that tube I cut.

I used 14mm x 1.5mm wheel lugs from O'Reillys ($4.99 for four) to plug the pair tube outlets coming out the upper manifold heat shield. If that's what you're talking about.