G63B Timing. 2.0 Mighty Max Help Check Timing

TLDR: Looking for timing instructions for 1987 2.0L Mighty max engine please.

Hi, I Just did a head gasket in my 2.0L 1987 Mighty Max. We marked everything and put it all back without disturbing anything (we hope) and it runs good, but when testing the timing the timing light is flashing the notch on the crank is about 45 degrees off, nowhere close to the timing marks on the cover. Not sure if there is any wire I need to ground or disconnect any vacuum hoses to retard the timing so I can make an accurate check? None of the local dealerships or autopart stores can tell me how to check the timing...

another thing I've noticed it that is sometimes hard to crank, like it's got way more compression now, difficult for the starter to turn it over, as if the battery is weak (although it's brand new battery)

The funny thing is, even if the timing is off, it is running really good, way more power than it had, the only thing is occasionally stalling on me when slowing down.

I had to replace the Ported Thermal Vacuum switch which broke off on me, even with the vacuum line going to distributor disconnected it still is way off with the timing gun.

1987 2.0L Mighty Max pickup. Engine G63B, HMT2.0TF2FFD1

Thanks

The only thing I do, '87 2.6L, is disconnect and plug the vac. hose to the dist. It sounds like you've got the belt on wrong and you're advanced way too much.
What I would do is bring #1 piston to tdc (on the compression stroke), check the position of the rotor (it should be pointing to #1 terminal on the cap), and check the position of the timing mark on the crank wheel (it should be on or near zero). If all three are right, the belt is right. Go from there.

ok cheers good call.

Well today I checked it. I rotated the crank to line up the notch at 0 and the first attempt I guess was not the compression stroke so the rotor was pointing near enough to #4, so I rotated the crank another turn lined the notch up to 0 and this time the rotor looks like it is pointing to #1, maybe a little bit past it if anything.

She keeps stalling on me while slowing down is the main problem, also when you get up to a cruising speed and at idle engine is vibrating a bit weird. Guess I'm going to have to pull the pulleys off to get the covers off so I can make sure it's all lined up right.

The stalling when idling is what makes me think you're too advanced. Sounds like everything is lining up, tho.
You might start with pulling the valve cover so you can see the cam(s) relation to the valves. Maybe pull #1 plug, insert a probe (a straw works good), and have a real good look at your belt alignment.
Could it be something inside the dist. causing it to stay in an advanced position? Just throwin' things out there.

I took some pictures.

At #1 TDC the notch in the crank is about 15 degree in front of the T mark for the timing calibration.


The Cam gear notch looks like it's about 8-8:30 position.

After I took this picture I took the valve cover off, and verified the valves are both closed on #1 at TDC

And the rotor is pointing pretty much at #1 terminal, maybe a little bit past it already.


Does this look timed to the trained eye?

Many thanks for the help dude.

By jove I think I might have figured it out. I pulled out the dist. and was able to turn the rotor button back a little bit so that it was pointing more directly towards #1. I found a mark behind the cam gear that must be the timing mark, but funny thing is that the piston had definately started moving back down the cylinder at this point. (crank notch pointing to the T in the cover)

It seemed to run much better for a little while but now it's idling rough again and stalling on me still.....

It sounds like your piston wasn't at tdc when the belt was installed. When you pulled the dist. and moved the rotor back you actually retarded the timing a little.
I'd set it all up again, just make sure all your marks are lined up. Cam gear mark has to be lined up w/the back plate mark (both #1 valves s/b closed) and #1 piston has to be at tdc . You can seat the dist. w/the rotor pointing at #1 after the belt is on. Should be good to go.

Thank you