2.4L no start (not coil or ecu)...bad distributor??

I have a 90 truck that quite running while on highway.

I have fuel, good transistor, good coil, and I replaced the ECU for rebuilt one...

still no start.

can someone confirm how to check the distributor electronics? there is a 4prong plug off of the distributor...I should be able to test this with test light? do you make contact with specific wires and the positive on battery terminal?

also have read that there is a position sensor in distributor..How do you test those? the OEM dodge repair manual sucks...no specific info on this.

Don't really need to check the distributor directly; you can test the distributor by removing each spark plug and testing for a spark one at a time.

Just keep the spark plug in the distributor cable, ground the threads on the spark plug to the chasis and turn over the engine. If you see a good spark the distributor is pushing to that wire well. Wash and repeat.

What does it sound like when you try to turn it on? I've been on a mission for weeks tryin to get my 94 up and running. Started with Fuel pump now tomorrow i'll be looking at the cylinders and hopefully not the lower end of the engine.

thanks...

yeah well that was stupid. I do have spark at least at the one cylinder I checked.

I don't hear the fuel pump running with cap off but I am not sure if these come on with key being turned on. I cracked the fitting where the steel fuel line and rubber line meet and when you crank the starter over fuel sprays out there (so I assumed it wasn't fuel related though I did not test the fuel pressure at all).

I don't have a voltmeter with a needle to check codes (only digital tester).

I guess I will:

try to check fuel pressure (maybe plugged filter or bad pump??)
check the engine timing.
check engine control relay??


did you check your ECU yet to see if the capacitors were leaky (I didn't see any leak on mine but they smelled really bad like shrimp so I replaced for rebuilt ECU for $100)

check coil and the power transistor??

check out this thread on suggestions:

So far I have done the following:

Checked good:

alternator
battery
starter
spark plugs
wires and distributor
Checked the ECU just looked normal no smell just a small metal box no exterior visible damage.
Timing belt

replaced fuel pump and filter
Removed valve cover, rocker arm assembly, valve springs, camshaft

Today i'll be taking a look at the cylinders to see if something is wrong with the pistons or the like. If not I guess i'll pull the engine and check the bottom end.

I'm starting to run out of ideas myself. There is fresh clean gas in the gas tank and it has been cleaned. Cleaned the fuel injectors with additive.

After taking the valve cover off I tried to crank it manually and it sounded like metal knocking together when the cam tried to turn; there was no hindrance in the cam so that's why i'm thinking it may be lower (hopefully in the cylinders)

Did all you do is look at he outside of the ecu nerd? If so you need to pull the cover off andblook over the capacitors inside

I'll check for burnt capacitors tonight. I figured since the cam did not even turn when trying manually to rotate the engine that the ecu was likely not the main issue