swamp rat
+1y
I am not out of the woods just yet. I am coordinating this repair with my local auto repair shop who cant find a "direct replacement" balljoint. They initially suggested taking the a-arms off and replacing them with factory a-arms, which kills the 4" suspension lift read won't permit sufficient clearance for 32's without adding a 4+" body lift so I'd rather not go there.
The old balljoints bolted under the aftermarket a-arm(s), and the a-arms .5" flat plate that the balljoint bolts onto doesn't allow the top of the new moog balljoint to protrude into/through the a-arm at all soo.
Currently there only an .75" oblong slot just big enough for the old adjustment nut and grease fitting to poke through the upper a-arm. Modifying the a-arms would be a major PITA, but even if, there would be little materal left between the enlarged center hole and the existing 3 bolt (mounting) holes (compromising integrety IMO)and doing so would also move the balljoints "hinge" point up (closer to the a-arm) .5"+ from its original (old ball joint) location. Uncertain if that would alter steering/suspension geometry, and/or compromise strength, I chose another route..
For maximum strength, and to keep the steering/suspension geometry the same as it was, I am having the local laser shop cut me two- 5/8" thick steel spacers to match the old ball joint triangular mounting flange that will locate the entire balljoint assembly under the a-arms mounting flange, just as it was before.
I am fairly certain the adapter plus spacer will resolve any further fitment/service issues.
The spacers are supposed to be ready monday, will post pics.
Now I am wondering, although the spacer will be sandwiched between the adapter and a-arm, if I should weld the adapters and spacers flanges together for increased strength, think its necessary?