Weber carb conversion, step by step?

Does anyone have a step by step of this Weber conversion....I have one in route for my new to me 1987 D50 coming. I am in KS, no inspection. Truck is automatic. Just looking to get it to run right and as many MPG as possible?

Just looking to avoid any common pitfalls.

I just did this conversion with the auto. Everything you need is supplied in the kit. The directions show you how to bolt on the adaptor plates, but it is pretty straight forward.
You will need to remove the EGR valve and plug it with the supplied plugs. It may requier some tourching, some liquid wrench for sure. Mine came out with the liquid wrench.
You will need to use thier throttle linkage, and your kickdown. Put the kick down on first, then the throttle cable linkage, you got to do a little wiggling to get it to fit; not hard. Then make your linkage for the kickdown longer by loosing the 13mm nut.
This is hard to describe, but a quick goolge search will show you how the fuel lines are hooked up. Follow your fuel line from the filter into the fuel pump and leave that one (that is the feed). The arm that is on top on the fuel filter and has the slight bend is the one that you run into your carb. The last one below the one just described goes back to the tank.
then hook up your breather drom the valve cover to your air filter with the stuff supplied.
The vac advance on the distributor needs to be hooked up the the carb (shown in directions)
I just capped all of the vac lines that were removed from the old carb; however the gerneral consensus seems to be to remove them all. My mechanic recomended using the supplies in the kit to try to hook them up to the advance. Still working out details in my truck. I just left the unused sensors out, and I have yet to figure out the choke wire.
One thing they did not supply was a cap for the return line from the old carb to the water lines. you can get one at your local autoparts store though.
If you are looking for some mileage you might want to look into a msd ignition box.
Good luck!

Thanks so much. Kit should arrive tomorrow. I am excited. I am pretty comfortable with the majority of the mechanical stuff.

MPG is the goal. I work at a truck accessory store, so it is going to get dropped, and probably a custom built tonneau cover, if I can't find an option. Ignition, Pacesetter exhaust, synthetic fluids, and some gauges (vacuum guage and trans temp) are on the "to do" list to wring every MPG out of the truck.

Kit feedback:

Solid A-

--Adapter and fasteners were all there as needed.
--Fuel line that they provide was too short.
--Installation "manual" could use some improvement, and definitely could use some pictures along the way.

One gripe is the throttle bracket. There was no mention that I saw that told you how to unbolt the nut on the end of the throttle linkage, and rotate and install their accessory bracket to allow use of the existing braided cable with barrel end throttle cable. To top it off, it eats precious threads on the throttle shaft, so you want to tighten things up, but then the throttle shaft starts to bind. I am afraid it might try to back off, so I might tack weld the nut to the end of the throttle shaft. A longer shaft, or maybe a cross drilled shaft to allow a cotter or hair pin as secondary retention would be a better way to go.

All in all an impressive kit, especially for what I have become to expect from Ebay stuff. Better instructions would have made it the perfect conversion kit.

Let me know how it runs. I did a conversion about a year ago. I haven't been able to get my truck to pass emissions since, and I can't run the vacuum advance line to the carb without it overheating.

The swap is pretty complete. I do believe there is probably a fair bit of tuning needed, especially if you have emissions testing. The vacuum advance problem you describe is probably advancing timing too far. I would try to put in a little less initial timing. It might also be the vacuum canister on distributor is bad. (Advise is general gear head knowledge from V8 mopar days, not D50 specific).