My first torsion victim.

its not a toyota, its a mazda, but I've been on here more than mazdabscene.

here is the drivers side, just to show you what I started with, we got it tore down last weekend:





here was how we left it last weekend (pass side):



and then this weekend I got alot of stuff cut out, and started welding and filling, I need to grind some stuff down, and do some more filling also, so go easy on me haha:



and a quick little pic of my only bead on this truck so far, there will be plenty more trust me:



I will update more, next week, when I go work on it again. Right now the control arms are off at a local fab shop getting cut and boxed to clear the frame.

and this is good practice for when I do my toyota! lol

here we go, got out there today so here is the update:

filled the hole and cut the upper horn a bit more:




and start the lower control arm plate, and cut it to fit the flipped ball joint:








setting it up for these, but it cannot use them until it is tubbed, too big:





the last pic:



he is gunna be running RE-7s on a 205/40/16 Z71 wheels. but I am setting it up for a 18inch rim, so he can move up later if he feels like tubbing the cab.

whos truck is this? Or where did you get it??

this guy brian who lives out in burleson, he is on dfwminis as deviousb2200 or something like that.

are you running drop spindles? and how much lower does tha mazda sit with fliped balljoints compared to running them regular? i bagged a mazda a while back and did it for 16's and didnt use spindles or fliped balljoint method... it laid frame but not on 17"+ rims lol...

well we cut everything and raised the control arm, and the stabalizer bar that runs to the front of the truck was binding on the steering components, so to get the spindle up even higher, I flipped the ball joints. it gives me about another 1-1.5 inches.

no drop spindles either.

basically, I am over doing it, so that there is less work later, if he wants to run a 17 or an 18 he can, but for anything bigger he will need to tub it.

the strut rod is always going to give you hell. Its not ment to move that much

flameds10 has a mazda on 20's with the radius rod still on it. and he lays body.

its still a pain in the ass to leave it. It is so much easier to just make a new mount to the frame.

Are you talking about an I beam setup? cause that is where i have seen a radius arm not on the setup on this truck