threads
Page 1 of 2
Yota Exterior \  2in body drop

2in body drop

Yota Exterior Yota Tech
views 7507
replies 17
following 5
 
3tcrob   +1y
I going to be doing a 2in BD traditional on my truck in the next few weeks or so is there anything that is going to cause any problems that I can take care of now? before the bd. I'm going to be running 17in rims So I dont think the clutch master will hit,going to be under a stock hood as well running sidedrafts
I also have a diveshaft tuneel as well that is going to be put in for when I bag it soon
any guidance or tips
Thanks
twisted minis   +1y
This is in a nutshell, how to perform a body drop. I have left out relocating things because it will be very different for each truck. But this shows where to cut the floor on your average mini truck. The front will vary from truck to truck, but this should be a good place to start.

Okay. Its a 2" body drop. I cut a 1.5" strip out of the back of the cab to allow for an overlap.
thread post photo

Then cut out a 2" strip on the front of the floorboard, and above the tranny tunnel.
thread post photo

I ended up building a low profile tranny tunnel to keep the stock heat.

Then cut straight down the side of the floor to connect the front and rear cuts. Then, let it drop.
thread post photo


You'll have to cut through some body mount supports. Brace them later on.

Rather than do this on the ground, which was quite wavy, I welded some heavy wall square tubing to the bottom of the frame to rest the body on.


Line it back up (I made some referrence marks with a marker) and weld the rear panel together, and start making filler panels.
thread post photo

thread post photo

Don't forget to tub the firewall.
thread post photo

Now is also a good time to replace any rust floor panels. Lol.
thread post photo

Its not necessary to remove the cab, but I chose to do so. I wanted to weld up the underside, and coat it in Por 15.
thread post photo

If you dont, lay down some paint on the other side of the new panels best you can to prevent rust.

I would recommend taking the areas to be cut down to bare metal before you make the cuts. It is much easier to remove paint when the panel isnt moving around.

One last thing that may help out, the clutch master. Where to put it? Well, theres plenty of room under the dash. I made up a simple lever setup on the stock pedal that worked in reverse. It is actually easier to press now. Here is a shot before it was installed.
thread post photo

And here it is under the dash, the frame welded to the dash support.
thread post photo


I located it off to the side of the AC vent, where it does not interfere with anything. It can be filled by simply removing the AC vent there.

Hope this helps.
holcombe347   +1y


i thought it was more than two inches to the pinch? either way, a lot of that stuff your going to have to kind of make up as you go...most of the stuff you already know will have to move or be recessed but how much will depend on where everything lays out according to your bodydrop distance. the transmission cross member might be a good place also Zing the frame should be done first before you cut your cab. the tranny cross member might be easier to weld with the cab off though. (thats if you plan on taking it off) im not sure if this helps much. oh and ive learned workin on my truck doing big projects, what ever time you estimate it will take you to complete it from start to finish, double it. lol.
3tcrob   +1y
Sweet thanks alot Seth I dont think I will have to tub the fire wall casue I wont run anything bigger than a 17 with a 215 40 on it, I have thought about putting the clutch cly inside just to clean up the fire wall some,The only thing that sucks is I'm not bagged yet so I dont know how I'm going to weld up my drivehsaft tunnel I may wait on that till the rear is done at least
Hopefully the first of March it is going to be done I have to get all my meatl my trailer fenders for the front and fill up my buddy's tank I'm going to try to get it done in a weekend we are putting it on the lift tomorrow to look underneath it to plan the cuts but,the plan is like yours straight down the sides under the pedals and overlap the rear wall
3tcrob   +1y
I'm getting a new trans crossmember, But I wont be pulling the cab, If it doesnt lay pinch that is fine I wasnt relly planning on bd this truck was trying to to it oldschool style before the bd came into picture
twisted minis   +1y
Good luck doing it in a week. I worked on mine all day every day during the summer (no school) and it took me 2 weeks.
3tcrob   +1y
it will be a sat night all day sun and mon My interior is gutted right now and I wont be doing my bed just the cab and the front clip
I will flat foor it and make new rails for my seats now, My buddy has done a couple of bd his traditnal and his bros stock floor my friends hb and another that is going to his shop at the end of this month, My truck is bare min parts no ac no power anything
twisted minis   +1y
So is mine. And all I did was the cab. Beds are easy.
3tcrob   +1y
are you making the trans members yet?
twisted minis   +1y
I don't think I'm going to produce them. Too expensive to ship.