QUITE POSSIBLY A REALLY STUPID QUESTION

when welding in your notches you have to move your proportioning valve! if you relocate it, do you still have to attach the rod off of it to the axle? or just cut the fucker off?

get rid of the valve altogether, heres a link to a thread that should be helpful.

thanks useless! i really apreciate that! i'm gonna go get a T this afternoon and strap that bitch up!

no prob. personally i prefer the putting a proportioning valve off the master, but i guess the t works too.

Dude, get a proportioning valve off of a 79-83 2wd truck. It works great, and its easy to hook up. Dont just T the lines. You have a proportioning valve for a reason.

you guys are absolutely right! you know how sometimes it has to sink in for awhile before your brain realizes wtf is going on! if i t'd it, all 4 wheels would have equal pressure, making it lock the rear wheels. since toyota parts are ridiculously hard to find around here i'm ordering an Adjustable Proportioning Valve and Distribution Block from JEGS. it has 2 master cylinder inlets, 2 front brake outlets and 1 rear brake outlet. so tell me if i'm right or wrong! using the existing lines. run one line from the master cylinder to one of the master cylinder inlets and block the other one! then run the line to the front brakes to one of the front brake outlets and block the other. then run the flex hose from the rear brake outlet to the t on the rear end!!!!

That should work fine, but its kind of pricey. This is what I am going to do on my truck (I have the stock PV I mentoned, but want an adjustable one for discs, and to close off the rear for some nice burnouts). Get a single brake line 'T' and put it under the master. Run one line from the master to it, and 'T' it out to the front brakes. Now take the other MC port and run it directly to the rear, and get an inline proportioning valve. They're $50-60 from Summit. Jegs probably has them too.

wait.... I just t'd mine, and i have NEVER had a bunch of brake probs....the worst thing that ever happened to me is = i was driving down the road and some f'n idiot pulled RIGHT out in front of me, i locked ALL FOUR up(might i add, it stopped like it was fukin VELCRO'ed to the road too), and it blew the seals in my left rear slave cylnder..$12.00 and it was fixed- never a problem since

Ever driven down a hill after a light mist and had something jump in front of you, or a light go red at just the right time? I wrecked a Ranger with T'd lines that way. Hit the brakes and the back end just whipped around doing about 45. You may not have problems with it, but proportioning valves are there for a reason.

if u wanna go a cheaper route, go to the junk yard, mine costs me 4 bucks.