alignment help

i just went and got my truck aligned today cause i finally finished up all the air ride. well i got it back and when i lower it, the front tires start to point out (away from the truck) so i cant even ride with the truck lowered at all in the front without the tires squealling and the truck steering crazy. does anyone elses truck do this or did they jus do something wrong? thanks

If you didn't use dropped spindles,you'll get a lot of negative chamber,then if you flip the ball joints!

i used drop spindles and the arms that seth makes. it just doesnt seem right to me. it has to be all the way up in the front or i cant drive it at all

You know you needed to have them align it at your preferred ride height, right? Most any geometrically correct front end toes out when you lower it. The reason being, when you go around a corner the outside suspension compresses. As it compresses the wheel bump steers out to soften the corner and inspire confidence. If it didn't do this (or it bumped in instead of out) it would easily oversteer or be twitchy.

i got it aligned at 80psi, if i lower it to 60psi i cant drive it at all. it jus doesnt seem right to me. i dont know if they arent doing something right or if the tie rods i bought from advanced are to long and they are pushing the wheel out

Something is wrong. You should have very little toe change through out all of your travel. I generally have them aligned at half travel, with about 3/32-1/8" toe in. And then I set it so that the upper arm is level or close to it, and adjust the camber to zero or positive 1/2 degree. I've had good luck with this equation, and I use a local alignment shop run by two brothers that are into hot rods and low riders. They are the only place that's willing to deal with my pickyness and actually do a good job.

Where did you put the spacers on the ball joints I provided? They are meant to go between the spindle and the castle nut in order to align the cotter pin. But if they where put between the spindle and ball joint it could cause some negative effects. If the control arms are thrown out of alignment with each other or the tie rod, it could cause some excessive bump steer.

Through about 12 inches of travel you should experience less than 1/2" of toe change with a stock Toyota clip, my arms, and Belltech drop spindles. I can't vouch for the accuracy of AIM spindles as I have not checked them against stock spindles.

So if i do the ball joint flip i get toe?

or camber?

I'm getting inner shoulder wear (205/75/R14) and that's all i have up front.. other than that, I did a full 4 wheel brake lock up from 70mph before...

can you tell me where exactly to put the washers and how many at each place so i can check and see if i got it right? like how many on the top and how many on the bottom? and are both top and bottom supposed to be between the spindle and the castle nut?

They are only meant for the bottom, the upper balljoint lines up with the cotter key without spacers. There should be an even number of washers, divide them up evenly between the lower balljoints. You should end up with roughly a 3/4" spacer on the lower. But you need to put it on top of the spindle between the spindle and the castle nut, after you put the balljoint in and it's seated. If you put them in between the spindle and control arm, it will affect your geometry, and your balljoint will not be seated properly, which is actually dangerous.