1st gen S10 door problem

for some reason my driver door is sagging.. like when i close it, it rubs the hell out of my door jam, and im not to sure why.. yes my roof is permantly gone, so i could think maybe no support.. but the passenger side is fine.. and this started when i put on my new doors, never did it before hand.. i didnt put the little springs in to keep the doors open but it doesnt look like that could be a problem.. anyone have any idea? (in order to shut my door, igotta slam that shit)

do you mean the bushings on the door pegs?

Edited: 9/8/2005 3:31:58 PM by SuperchargedS10

from working in bodyshops i know wthat those door pin bushings are not reusable if you didnt buy new ones thats your problem most of the time you can find them autozone pretty cheap if not their not that expensive from your local dealer its a wearout item you know the ones they like to make money on

you can replace just the pins and bushings.... I sell them all the time

Mine do the same

just replace the door pins and bushings. once those things start to sag it starts to bend the pins. if you dont take care of it now you will also be replacin the door latch. it will get messed up from being lower than the striker and being slammed shut!

you could try a door adjustment tool i use it at work and have seen it correct some pretty hefty sagging, but thats if the bushings are fine, but it never hurts to get new pins and bushings

welp, appreciate the help, ima get new pins n bushings.. but.. my door is stuck shut now, i guess the latch is fucked up, i cant even get my 90 degree pick in there to pull the latch off.. iuno, ima get all new pins and i got 2 new doors anyways, cuz i hate doing body work n i got dents.. hopefully i got better luck next time around. thanks.

I've experienced the same problems when changing doors between early S-10s. I don't know what the deal is but when I put a set of doors on my S-10 from an S-10 blazer, the one door was REALLY tight to the rocker and even slightly rubbed. I even had to lean the tops of the window frame in about 3/16" on both sides to line up with the cab. I had new pins and bushings and the door was aligned very nicely on all other gaps. I can only chalk it up to variances in the manufacturing of the doors. Only way to fix it 100% is to grind off the bottom of the door, reweld it and metal finish it. Word to the wise, weld in 1/2" increments and hammer weld the edge as you go to control the shrinking associated with welding or you'll be kicking yourself later when it gets away from you.