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Yota 2.4L 22-RE I4 \  battery relocation question

battery relocation question

Yota 2.4L 22-RE I4 Yota Engine Yota Tech
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replies 11
following 6
 
holcombe347   +1y
im relocating my battery to the bed on the passengerside of the truck. instead of cutting my wiring harness and adding length to it, i was just going to run some battery posts up front and hook up my wiring harness like normal. my questin is though, when i mount the terminals, how do i keep the positive terminal from grounding out? put a gromet or something to keep it away from touching the body/frame? also, i know someone asked before but i dont think an answer was ever clear. could i use 4 ga. amp wire to make the pigtails run to the battery in the bed to the terminals at the front of the truck? its sheilded and its thicker than the stock wire used for the starter but im just not 100% sure if it would be alright.
slammed   +1y
I mounted a circuit breaker to the frane up front to join the 2 wires together. IMO it was a clean way to do that. I still have a fuse right off the battery, but I had the circuit breaker and it made sense to use it.
holcombe347   +1y
what size breaker did you use? 50 amp? i just found out that that jegs and summit sell battery relocation kits (wiring and terminals) but i would like to put my compressors on a breaker or fuse similar to amp. fuses.
3tcrob   +1y
I used a Jump post that is insulated off a fire truck You could go to the junk yard and look on some of the GM Cars I know the Cadlillacs for sure have a little red box that is insulated and is used as a jump point I used one of them on my other car no problem and it has a cover as well
Here is my jump point now with the 2 gauge wire running throught the frame to the bed
thread post photo
holcombe347   +1y
I WAS LOOKING AT JEGS TODAY, THEY HAD SOMETHING SIMILAR TO THAT FOR LIKE 10 BUCKS. THATS COOL THOUGH, THATS EXACTLY WHAT I WANT TO DO RIGHT THERE....SOME ONE TOLD ME ON SSM NOT TO USE AMP WIRE, BUT TO USE 0 OR 00 GAGE INSULATED COPPER. I DONT REALLY UNDERSTAND WHY...THE AMP WIRE IS INSULATED, AND IMO IT LOOKS BETTER AND ITS EASIER TO WORK WITH. I WASNT GOING TO GO AS BIG AS 0 BUT PROBABLY 2 GAUGE.
holcombe347   +1y
COULD YOU GET ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE JUMPS INCASE I CANT FIND ONE HERE AT AN AUTOPARTS STORE? I WOULD GO TO A JUNK YARD BUT THE ONES OUT HERE I'VE SEEN ONE TOYOTA TRUCK AND THE REST ARE ALL LIKE DODGES, AND CHEVY TRUCKS ITS KINDA BACK IN THE DAY WHERE I LIVE. LOL.
toyotaman89   +1y
2 ga car audio wire is perfectly fine, i have been in car audio for 15 years, and done this several times, 4ga will even work fine. i like the idea even better if you use a 120 amp circuit breaker in front, as well as back, use them as your distrubution blocks up front for the factory wires. the reason for the cb's is so if it grounds either in the front or rear, the cb's will pop to protect the truck before the wire starts smokin...
holcombe347   +1y
OKAY JUST TO MAKE SURE IM ON THE SAME PAGE AS YOU TOYOTAMAN. IS THIS HOW YOUR TALKING ABOUT TO WIRE IT? ALSO, ILL PROBABLY USE 4 GAUGE UNLESS I CAN FIND 2 AT BEST BUY. ILL PROLLY GET THE KIT SO I CAN USE THE FUSE TO PUT MY COMPRESSORS ON. WOULD 50 AMP BREAKERS BE ALRIGHT FOR THIS? OR IS IT A MUST THAT I GO TO 120? IF I USE THESE BREAKERS THEN COULD I ELIMINATE THE JUMPER? I DREW THE JUMPER IN THERE BUT DIDNT REALIZE IT UNTIL NOW. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP.

thread post photo


THE PICTURE DIDNT COME OUT TO WELL, HERES THE LINK FOR THE IMAGE IF YOU NEED IT TO BE CLEARER.
hotlavaxb2089   +1y
Where would one buy these circuit breakers
holcombe347   +1y
i think ive seen some smaller ones like the 30 amp or something like that at advanced auto parts. but im not sure where to find the 120 amp. ones.