i've noticed some B body cars have opted to go with 2 links as oppsed to the stock 4 link... im assuming this is because of the articulation the uneven stock 4 link gives along with the centering of the wheel in the wheel well... on my car i have a adjustable METCO billet 4 link... and the axle twists pretty good with the rail on the ground....MY question is those of you with 2 links ...does the pinion angle vary as bad as the stock 4 link and if so does it bind through the swing of a 2600 lift... cuz im still mulling over a swap to a 2 link...also setting the axle centered in the wheel well at rail pulls the drive shaft an 1" or 2 out from the trans. ... does this cause any leaking problems like ive encountered on trucks?
I am also curious about how hard it is to convert over to a two link my car is in the shop now being bagged. They are doing a 3 or 4" c notch for now. with stock trailing arms. I think we will have to extend them 3/4". Also how much of the front fenders need to be cut out or do I have to remove the whole inner fenderwell? The front will have 2" drop spindles and bags.
"also setting the axle centered in the wheel well at rail pulls the drive shaft an 1" or 2 out from the trans. ... does this cause any leaking problems like ive encountered on trucks?" Have you had any problems with yours leaking? Is there a way to fix the problem?
the upper bars being too short pull the the rear in too much as well as cause bad pinion angle change, also floor clearence is an issue as well, you can run a 4 link but you will loose floor space and posibly the back seat
i had 2 trucks that leaked out the rear seal because of drive shaft telescoping... havent even drove the caprice bagged yet..cuz i just finished the bridge...havent even cut for the driveshaft yet.. which is gonna be like an inch or two...
i was just worried about the articulation the stock 4 link presents with the uneven size bars...pinion angle and so on...there is no floor space loss.. and the bars right now fit with a lil trimming of the upperlink/shockmount cross member...
I ditched my 4 link and went with a cantilever 2 link and I have no problems over the full range of the adjustability (the car has been bagged for 2 years now). I am going to redo the position of the bags this winter though to get a little more lift.
lol yeah i noticed...lol ... had to do everything you mentioned .. all the clearance issues with the bars and such.. but its down now.....only thing left is the tubbing the floor for the drive shaft...
in the front i used 4.5" diameter 2.5"high cups up top and 1/4" plate on the bottom control arms... welded flat with the top of the pocket...