which cam is better

i know there is a 272 and a 282 so im wondering which is better for just regular driving, i want the most power(funny statement) and i dont mind a lumpy idle, but is the 282 too aggressive and does anyone know prices on these, preferrably the 282. thanks

go with the comp 282 has a noticeable loap to it and is great for daily driving. i use to have a 350 with a lot of motor work and i ran a comp 282 with a true 3 inch dual exhaust. sounded bad as* and the cam performed nice

The best cam for this truck will have a split duration profile.

The B2200/2000 is a small displacement OHC 4 cylinder with far different port and combustion chamber design from any 350. Because of this and the fact that all vehicles react different from others you cannot compare how a cam from a 350 will run in a pickup.

If you want to go with one of those two cams I would go with the 272, it will be much more drivable then the 282 degree cam which won't get into its power band until about 4,000 rpms.

The advertised duration on the cam I'm running right now is 268/280 and even it puts the power band of my truck to high for me to use most of it. I would recommend a cam around 262/274.

would that go well in the FE3 also?

hey K6 right after i made this post i went to your site and read all kinds of tech stuff and articles you had on cams and such, great website. thanks for the reply, so where did you get your cam and what did you pay? also how do you like it thus far?

I have a lunati 480/292 in mine and it has a great idle and lopes pretty good as well as lots of midrange and high end power. a V-8 in a minitruck doesnt need much in the lower end because of the weight of the truck. so you can concentrate on the upper end. power from say a 30 40 or 50 punch. plus this is good for an automatic trans that has a kickdown.

The FE3 is a 16-valve head I think which means it will require much less duration to do the same job.

I got my cam from Shadbolt Cams in canada, total cost including shipping I think was $180 usd. I like the cam but currently my engine isn't setup right for it to run where it should. When I first rebuilt the engine I could pull civics off the line until 3rd gear where they smoked me. Now its a slug at low rpms but if I'm doing about 75 in 5th gear and downshift into 4th it will do 95 in nothing flat and I can have it doing 110 mph fairly easy once I get it in 5th. My transmission is modified though so you won't get that kind of top end.

My personal opinion if you want to run that cam is you should atleast have a Weber or Holley 5200 with some minor manifold and head work, pace setter headers, 2" exhaust, MSD Blater 2 or similar coil with low resistance wires (nothing Accel) and you should try to do something to boost your compression a little bit, or machine your cam sprocket to accept some timing bushings they make for chevys to advance the cam about 4 degrees to bring your low end dynamic compression back up. Probably not all of those are needed but will definatly compliment the cam setup.

If you want to keep some of your low end torque I would go for a slightly less aggressive cam, something in the 260-275 range.

There is also Colt Cams and Delta cams. Colt Cams was started by a guy from Shadbolt and they are in direct competition with eachother. Delta is in washington I believe and they probably make the 272 and 282 cams you where talking about. Delta will probably be less hassle because you don't have to do an international money order and wait 3 weeks for it to get through customs and stuff but I would ask if they have a split duration profile.

If you decide to go a different build route feel free to ask any questions you want.

K6

Originally posted by DawgsledMazda



A V-8 in a minitruck doesnt need much in the lower end because of the weight of the truck. so you can concentrate on the upper end. power from say a 30 40 or 50 punch. plus this is good for an automatic trans that has a kickdown.

I was thinking we where talking about the stock F2 engine in the B2200, are we talking about a V8 ^.o ?

Edited: 9/25/2005 7:47:51 PM by Nick S

no no, im talking about the F2. also does your tranny mod make that much of a difference? i have tires slightly smaller than stock. not enough to make a huge difference i dont think, and at 70 im at about 3000 if im not mistaken. what are your rpms at 70 when you are downshifting? those speeds just sound crazy out of a mazda. im interested in the mod and looked at your site, but can i use an rx 7 tranny and just swap the bellhousing and tailshaft if im not confident in my ability to mess with tranny innards?

Well mind you because its carbureted and no longer has the vacuum controlled systems on it power comes and goes. Yesterday morning it held 95 mph at 1/4 throttle, that afternoon I had to keep it floored to keep it at 80. This morning it was about the same this morning as yesterday morning and this afternoon it was about 6 degrees hotter then yesterday afternoon and it drove just like it did this morning.

Most of my speed comes from increasing the breathing of the engine. The second you open up the exhaust and intake you should be able get it to rev up to a higher rpm while in most gears. The other place I get the speed from is the cam which is making most of its power above 4,000 rpm.

With the stock tires you should be doing 3,224 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear. The current 5th gear I'm running drops that about 100 rpm which makes a huge difference in gas milage.

If I wanted to dump huge amounts of money into the engine I have a mazda tranny and differential setup that at 7,000 rpm would have a roll out speed of 205 mph but I think the truck would go airborn before it ever got close to that speed even if I did get the engine powerful enough to do it.

I would try to get a S4 RX7 tranny, you can then swap your bell housing and tail housing onto it and it should bolt right in. I wouldn't do this on a stock engine as you won't be able to hold 5th gear. Almost all mazda 5 speeds are direct drive in 4th gear so it will not change.