slammed88cutlass
+1y
my friend has a stock floored s-10 that he put a corvette 327 in. I know a swap like this fairly common so hopefully someone can help us figure out how to wire it. where on a formerly 2.2 litre s-10 would i be able to find an ignition power to power the distributor? And also what other wiring provisions need to be made to get this thing to run? Any diagrams or anything like that would be much appreciated. I tryed figuring out what wires do what at the ignition switch using an OHM meter and couldnt figure it out. The wiring is mostly pulled into the vehicle and it seems impossible without a good diagram(cant find one) to figure it out. Can someone steer me in the right direction so we can ge this thing on the road? thanks.
Lo94S-10
+1y
The easiest way I'd think would be to get a Painless harness, even though they are quite expensive, they're worth it. You could also try checking a GM dealer to see if they'll let you check out their ecm manual and copy some pages.
deflaytedwayz2
+1y
instead of chaceing wires i would get rid of them. them get a painless wireing kit from sumitraceing or jegs and then everythign will be fresh anc new and you can rout them anywhere you want, and they still have all the wires for head lights wiers ect.Rewire your muscle car.Use Painless Performance universal muscle car harnesses to handle all of the power demands of today's aftermarket add-ons. These harnesses use the highest quality thermal-crossed linked (TXL) polyethylene wire rated to 275 degrees at 600 volts - twice the voltage load of standard GPT wire. That's power on demand. Available for 12-circuit and 18-circuit applications.
12-circuit harnesses for most 1960s and 70s Chrysler, Ford and GM cars where a bulkhead connector is required. Includes air conditioning, heat, brake lights, coil, horn, electric fan, emergency flashers, dash instruments, headlights, radio (constant and ignition hot), turn signals, wipers, dome light, tail lights, third brake light, charging and starting.
18-circuit includes the same as a 12-circuit plus power door locks, power windows, accessory plug, electric fuel pump, backup lights/cruise control, electric choke, and power antenna.
12-circuit harnesses for most 1960s and 70s Chrysler, Ford and GM cars where a bulkhead connector is required. Includes air conditioning, heat, brake lights, coil, horn, electric fan, emergency flashers, dash instruments, headlights, radio (constant and ignition hot), turn signals, wipers, dome light, tail lights, third brake light, charging and starting.
18-circuit includes the same as a 12-circuit plus power door locks, power windows, accessory plug, electric fuel pump, backup lights/cruise control, electric choke, and power antenna.
streetsweeper1
+1y
Originally posted by deflaytedwayz2
instead of chaceing wires i would get rid of them. them get a painless wireing kit from sumitraceing or jegs and then everythign will be fresh anc new and you can rout them anywhere you want, and they still have all the wires for head lights wiers ect.Rewire your muscle car.Use Painless Performance universal muscle car harnesses to handle all of the power demands of today's aftermarket add-ons. These harnesses use the highest quality thermal-crossed linked (TXL) polyethylene wire rated to 275 degrees at 600 volts - twice the voltage load of standard GPT wire. That's power on demand. Available for 12-circuit and 18-circuit applications.
12-circuit harnesses for most 1960s and 70s Chrysler, Ford and GM cars where a bulkhead connector is required. Includes air conditioning, heat, brake lights, coil, horn, electric fan, emergency flashers, dash instruments, headlights, radio (constant and ignition hot), turn signals, wipers, dome light, tail lights, third brake light, charging and starting.
18-circuit includes the same as a 12-circuit plus power door locks, power windows, accessory plug, electric fuel pump, backup lights/cruise control, electric choke, and power antenna.
does that sound PAINLESS? HUH??? Just kidding. I agree though that is the cleanest best option.
instead of chaceing wires i would get rid of them. them get a painless wireing kit from sumitraceing or jegs and then everythign will be fresh anc new and you can rout them anywhere you want, and they still have all the wires for head lights wiers ect.Rewire your muscle car.Use Painless Performance universal muscle car harnesses to handle all of the power demands of today's aftermarket add-ons. These harnesses use the highest quality thermal-crossed linked (TXL) polyethylene wire rated to 275 degrees at 600 volts - twice the voltage load of standard GPT wire. That's power on demand. Available for 12-circuit and 18-circuit applications.
12-circuit harnesses for most 1960s and 70s Chrysler, Ford and GM cars where a bulkhead connector is required. Includes air conditioning, heat, brake lights, coil, horn, electric fan, emergency flashers, dash instruments, headlights, radio (constant and ignition hot), turn signals, wipers, dome light, tail lights, third brake light, charging and starting.
18-circuit includes the same as a 12-circuit plus power door locks, power windows, accessory plug, electric fuel pump, backup lights/cruise control, electric choke, and power antenna.
does that sound PAINLESS? HUH??? Just kidding. I agree though that is the cleanest best option.
thekidd
+1y
you can also to your local gm dealer and in the back of the gm performance catalog there is a gm wiring harness for 12 or 18 curicts. that you can use on the s-10 thats what i'm getting for mine.. i think i payed like 350.00 for it. it uses the factory holes in the firewall for routing..
deflaytedwayz2
+1y
Originally posted by thekiddec
you can also to your local gm dealer and in the back of the gm performance catalog there is a gm wiring harness for 12 or 18 curicts. that you can use on the s-10 thats what i'm getting for mine.. i think i payed like 350.00 for it. it uses the factory holes in the firewall for routing..
that would usually be good for an engine swap. but on most Bd trucks you have to move the hole in the fire wall to clear the wheel tubs. so the harnes may be to short after moving the point in the fire wall where the harness comes out. painless usually has an option for extra wire in teh lume so you can move it where you like. but the gm harnes is another option
you can also to your local gm dealer and in the back of the gm performance catalog there is a gm wiring harness for 12 or 18 curicts. that you can use on the s-10 thats what i'm getting for mine.. i think i payed like 350.00 for it. it uses the factory holes in the firewall for routing..
that would usually be good for an engine swap. but on most Bd trucks you have to move the hole in the fire wall to clear the wheel tubs. so the harnes may be to short after moving the point in the fire wall where the harness comes out. painless usually has an option for extra wire in teh lume so you can move it where you like. but the gm harnes is another option
DawgsledMazda
+1y
you wouldnt even need that wiring kit if you ran a HEI ignition and a one wire alternator. just 2 simple wires to hook up. starter wiring is the same, guage senders will also fit in the V-8
slammed88cutlass
+1y
Originally posted by DawgsledMazda
you wouldnt even need that wiring kit if you ran a HEI ignition and a one wire alternator. just 2 simple wires to hook up. starter wiring is the same, guage senders will also fit in the V-8
he has an hei and a three wire that i desperatley want him to switch to a one wire. I agree with everyone else he should go with a painless harness but he wants to get it on the road asap and cheap. I think using the factory stuff should work like you said. But how? What wire do what? I cant find a good diagram. Even if i had a good factory diagram i could figure it out i think.
you wouldnt even need that wiring kit if you ran a HEI ignition and a one wire alternator. just 2 simple wires to hook up. starter wiring is the same, guage senders will also fit in the V-8
he has an hei and a three wire that i desperatley want him to switch to a one wire. I agree with everyone else he should go with a painless harness but he wants to get it on the road asap and cheap. I think using the factory stuff should work like you said. But how? What wire do what? I cant find a good diagram. Even if i had a good factory diagram i could figure it out i think.
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