Blower motor and blower resistor check out

ok sorry for taking so long to respond i could not get the web site to come up for me ok ima try that thanks again really appreciate all the help!!

ok so i got the glove box out i see the relay i checked with a test light only have power to the 1 solid blue wire going into the relay nothing coming out i can feel the relay click once also i checked with a test like on the compressor i had some1 turn the key to run and then shut off the compressor kicks in for a second and kicks out the test light bulb turned on for a sec and shut off and i could actually see the clutch kick in and out for that split second

on the blower resistor im not getting anything on any of the wires the bulb just barely glows on the test light, also on the a/c relay shouldnt i be gettin power coming out it has 4 wires

green/brown (no power)

blue (power when keyed on)

black/pink (no power)

blue/white no power

ok with the blue and white when the truck in the run position fan on a/c on im gettin 0.068 other wires nothing

so i decided to stop being lazy i took the relay out of my other mazda and put it in works fine a/c kicks in still same voltage now quick question advance and autozone dont show on there website the a/c relay anyone know where i can get one

OK, my blower resistor went out last Sunday, had blower speeds on 3rd and highest speeds, but no AC compressor operation. On speeds 1 and 2, AC compressor kicked on but no blower motor.

So I fixed that today. First, I cleaned out the glove box. The little wooden divider I made stays installed. Note the accessory 12 V receptacle where I keep my cell phone plugged in.


Glove box comes out. Remember which way the latch points before you unscrew the two screws holding it. Keep the door retainers on their correct sides when you unscrew those. For mine, I also removed the two push-on connectors to that receptacle. View from rear, showing that receptacle.


View after removing glove box, note the relays and switches for the AC.


The blower resistor is more to the "outside" and more difficult to see, its coils are hidden inside the air box assembly. See this from the manual. The screws do face straight down, as shown. There are two wire harness connectors to it.


It removes by unscrewing two Phillips head screws, then removing the two harnesses. Well, I said two harnesses, but mine had one harness, one block-off, and a thicker blue wire.
Note the broken middle coil on mine.


Note that mine contained a "harness to nowhere" to block off the "C" terminal, there's only the "C" terminal in that smaller harness.


Of course, all four of my parts yard spares were different than mine, and didn't have that wire.


Using Electronics 101, I saw that wire also went to the "C" terminal on the blower resistor, so I cut the wire off my broken one, and crimped on a female push-on connector and attached that to the "C" terminal in place of that "harness to nowhere".


Then I buttoned it all up, and it works again. It was Mrs. Cusser's birthday, and we took the bikes on the B2200 bike rack (in the 2-inch receiver hitch) and did about a 15 mile bike ride on the park bike paths, from mid-Scottsdale down to the Tempe Lake north of Sun Devil stadium. Then I took her to lunch at Scottsdale Restaurant she chose; with tip: $47, but I was able to get a Four Peaks Kiltlifter Scottish ale, extremely good).

My resistor is the same way but never got around to "transfer" the blue wire over to the resistor I got from my local yard. Glad to see that what I was thinking of doing will work.

Ok so my heater will only even turn on when I have it set ot the high setting could this just be the knob/switch is bad or possibly the resistor?

Thanks buddy I will have to check into this.