Wiki Home \ My October 2011 B2200 Engine Rebuild
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Before starting.
Pan and baffle off; looked pretty clean, and no junk in the oil pan at all:
My old broken fan shroud:
New (parts yard) top and old fan shroud bottom:
"New" fan shroud overlaid on the Murray 2-row radiator. Red arrows show Murray shroud mounting holes. Blue arrows show where I drilled my own 1/4 inch holes, so I can use 6.0mm x 1.0mm bolts/nuts.
My engine set to TDC for #1
My Weber/adapters/intake manifold taken off as a unit (those 12mm gear wrenches are great). The two arrows point to the small 8mm i.d. bypass hoses that I need to buy new.
Fan bracket removed and timing belt off camshaft pulley.
Underside of valve cover after baffle removed. I'll need to get a new PCV grommet.
Rocker arms and under valve cover.
Cylinder head off.
Second view of engine block
Underside of cylinder head. I don't see any cracks (good).
Oil rings stuck in piston groove, source of oil getting into and/or staying in cylinder
Also, I could still see the original honing marks on the cylinders, and there was no ridge.
Bearings looked in great shape for 183K miles !!!
Crankshaft journals also looked real good, not getting this reground or doing new main bearings
Refurbished cylinder head back from the shop
I had to remove the rocker arms to add sealant and assembly lube
Cylinder head front piece added with camshaft seal and
camshaft gear
Intake manifold and Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor back on
Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor with EGR block-off plate
New piston and rings v. old piston. Again note that oil control ring is not out any further than the piston on the old
Engine block before light honing with electric drill
After honing with electric drill, hone marks visible
Using wooden dowels to keep head gasket aligned and to
aid cylinder head alignment
Cylinder head, valve cover, timing belt installed
Finished view of engine compartment: The B2200 runs good, NO SMOKE, and no leaks so far.
Had big-time stalling issue after starting up, traced to vacuum leak under carburetor, as I had re-used (too many times) the carburetor base gasket. New gaskets are available only from California or NY, so I bought this rubberized gasket material and made my own
The garage space where I did all this.
Workbench after completion, before cleaning up. Note oil spill of
My October 2011 B2200 Engine Rebuild
Last Updated: Feb 24, 2015View Photos
My October 2011 B2200 Engine Rebuild, salvaged from my MazdaTrucking.com thread. At 182,900 miles, my 1988 B2200 Cab Plus was smoking too much and burning/using oil, time to "go in" and be environmental. Oh yeah - need to add that I purchased new NPR pistons, rings, and bearings from online retailer. I bought a few exhaust gaskets locally, and the Mazda bypass hoses locally as well. The original two heater hoses were replaced with Gates hoses from Rock Auto, and I used Fel-Pro head gasket set from them as well. Rock Auto also provided the flexible lower clutch line, which I replaced when my slave cylinder (local lifetime warranty) started leaking in the middle of all this. Cylinder head was machined locally ($260), used my existing lifters. Hone and ring compressor were loaners from AutoZone.
Out of pocket cost was about $700. It took me 1.5 days to dismantle and get the cylinder heads and the connecting rods/pistons to the machine shop, who also hung those. It took me 2.5 days to put together, but that also includes fussin' with the vacuum leak under the Weber carb, I had tried to re-use those gaskets once too many times.
Before starting, I got my calculator and camera phone ready.
Before starting.
Pan and baffle off; looked pretty clean, and no junk in the oil pan at all:
My old broken fan shroud:
New (parts yard) top and old fan shroud bottom:
"New" fan shroud overlaid on the Murray 2-row radiator. Red arrows show Murray shroud mounting holes. Blue arrows show where I drilled my own 1/4 inch holes, so I can use 6.0mm x 1.0mm bolts/nuts.
My engine set to TDC for #1
My Weber/adapters/intake manifold taken off as a unit (those 12mm gear wrenches are great). The two arrows point to the small 8mm i.d. bypass hoses that I need to buy new.
Fan bracket removed and timing belt off camshaft pulley.
Underside of valve cover after baffle removed. I'll need to get a new PCV grommet.
Rocker arms and under valve cover.
Cylinder head off.
Second view of engine block
Underside of cylinder head. I don't see any cracks (good).
Oil rings stuck in piston groove, source of oil getting into and/or staying in cylinder
Also, I could still see the original honing marks on the cylinders, and there was no ridge.
Bearings looked in great shape for 183K miles !!!
Crankshaft journals also looked real good, not getting this reground or doing new main bearings
Refurbished cylinder head back from the shop
I had to remove the rocker arms to add sealant and assembly lube
Cylinder head front piece added with camshaft seal and
camshaft gear
Intake manifold and Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor back on
Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor with EGR block-off plate
New piston and rings v. old piston. Again note that oil control ring is not out any further than the piston on the old
Engine block before light honing with electric drill
After honing with electric drill, hone marks visible
Using wooden dowels to keep head gasket aligned and to
aid cylinder head alignment
Cylinder head, valve cover, timing belt installed
Finished view of engine compartment: The B2200 runs good, NO SMOKE, and no leaks so far.
Had big-time stalling issue after starting up, traced to vacuum leak under carburetor, as I had re-used (too many times) the carburetor base gasket. New gaskets are available only from California or NY, so I bought this rubberized gasket material and made my own
The garage space where I did all this.
Workbench after completion, before cleaning up. Note oil spill of
Credits
Created By: Cusser
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jenko
+1y
That was beautiful
Engine feeling old? Tickle it up like this... talk about good condition though!
Engine feeling old? Tickle it up like this... talk about good condition though!
Cusser
+1y
Oh yeah - need to add that I purchased new NPR pistons, rings, and bearings from online retailer. I bought a few exhaust gaskets locally, and the Mazda bypass hoses locally as well. The original two heater hoses were replaced with Gates hoses from Rock Auto, and I used Fel-Pro head gasket set from them as well. Rock Auto also provided the flexible lower clutch line, which I replaced when my slave cylinder (local lifetime warranty) started leaking in the middle of all this. Cylinder head was machined locally ($260), used my existing lifters. Hone and ring compressor were loaners from AutoZone.
Out of pocket cost was about $700. It took me 1.5 days to dismantle and get the cylinder heads and the connecting rods/pistons to the machine shop, who also hung those. It took me 2.5 days to put together, but that also includes fussin' with the vacuum leak under the Weber carb, I had tried to re-use those gaskets once too many times.
Out of pocket cost was about $700. It took me 1.5 days to dismantle and get the cylinder heads and the connecting rods/pistons to the machine shop, who also hung those. It took me 2.5 days to put together, but that also includes fussin' with the vacuum leak under the Weber carb, I had tried to re-use those gaskets once too many times.
Cusser
+1y
Feb. 2012 completed stereo installation of the CD-cassette unit. So after finally learning how to work the $%^&$#%^#%^&^ thing, I like it, works good. I've only taken off the faceplate about 4 times, when I've been away from it for a while like while downtown for diamondbacks game.
I haven't updated my speakers in about a dozen years, may do that with some newer 4 inch speakers.
Feb. 2012 completed stereo installation of the CD-cassette unit. So after finally learning how to work the $%^&$#%^#%^&^ thing, I like it, works good. I've only taken off the faceplate about 4 times, when I've been away from it for a while like while downtown for diamondbacks game.
I haven't updated my speakers in about a dozen years, may do that with some newer 4 inch speakers.
Cusser
+1y
OK, this month is my truck's 25th birthday, so time for an update (1988 Cab Plus built in Oct. 1987).
Yes, I did retorque the cylinder head bolts at about 500 miles, and changed the oil then as well. I've been good at changing the oil every 3 - 3.5K miles, so far have about 8K miles on the engine after the rebuild, 191K total. I'm still smokeless, and the spark plugs are clean, so really good. I'm leaking a little oil, last weekend re-sealed the mechanical fuel pump base with a rubberized gasket I made plus some Permatex Aviation (instead of the RTV I used at the rebuild), so far no leaks there. I did not replace the lifters, and they still occasionally tick. Mrs. Cusser and I took the B2200 on vacation last week, see " target="_blank .
So for the $700 out-of-pocket cost and a few vacation days, I have to say this was a very successful project.
Yes, I did retorque the cylinder head bolts at about 500 miles, and changed the oil then as well. I've been good at changing the oil every 3 - 3.5K miles, so far have about 8K miles on the engine after the rebuild, 191K total. I'm still smokeless, and the spark plugs are clean, so really good. I'm leaking a little oil, last weekend re-sealed the mechanical fuel pump base with a rubberized gasket I made plus some Permatex Aviation (instead of the RTV I used at the rebuild), so far no leaks there. I did not replace the lifters, and they still occasionally tick. Mrs. Cusser and I took the B2200 on vacation last week, see " target="_blank .
So for the $700 out-of-pocket cost and a few vacation days, I have to say this was a very successful project.
robzilla
+1y
This is a nice write up! It sounds like you just purchased individual parts instead of a rebuild kit. Was that more cost effective?
Cusser
+1y
I bought the Fel-Pro head gasket kit from RockAuto, but also available locally. Its part number was #HS 9572 PT-1.
I purchased new NPR pistons, rings, and bearings from online retailer. I bought a few exhaust gaskets locally, and the Mazda bypass hoses locally as well. The original two heater hoses were replaced with Gates hoses from Rock Auto, and I used Fel-Pro head gasket set from them as well. Get a new timing belt if yours has more than 20K or so on it, and get good brand, like factory or Gates (I used Gates).
I bought the standard size NPR pistons, rings, and connecting rod and main bearings as a set from an Ebay retailer; I did not use the main bearings, as my engine journals and CR bearings looked so good. I bought from Ebay retailer Mizumoauto
I filled in other stuff new that I wanted, such as bypass rubber hoses, heater hoses, and front catalytic converter gaskets from local, as it appears that Fel-Pro assumes that you will not be separating the exhaust manifold from the front converter.
exhaust gaskets Pre-converter gasket (top of front converter) - FEL-PRO Part number is 60534
(Special order Autozone or O'Reilly)
Bottom Pre-converter gasket (3-hole) Fel-Pro 60286 (stocked at Autozone $3.49)
Exhaust pipes, second converter, muffler, etc. (need three or four)
I bought the Fel-Pro head gasket kit from RockAuto, but also available locally. Its part number was #HS 9572 PT-1.
I purchased new NPR pistons, rings, and bearings from online retailer. I bought a few exhaust gaskets locally, and the Mazda bypass hoses locally as well. The original two heater hoses were replaced with Gates hoses from Rock Auto, and I used Fel-Pro head gasket set from them as well. Get a new timing belt if yours has more than 20K or so on it, and get good brand, like factory or Gates (I used Gates).
I bought the standard size NPR pistons, rings, and connecting rod and main bearings as a set from an Ebay retailer; I did not use the main bearings, as my engine journals and CR bearings looked so good. I bought from Ebay retailer Mizumoauto
I filled in other stuff new that I wanted, such as bypass rubber hoses, heater hoses, and front catalytic converter gaskets from local, as it appears that Fel-Pro assumes that you will not be separating the exhaust manifold from the front converter.
exhaust gaskets Pre-converter gasket (top of front converter) - FEL-PRO Part number is 60534
(Special order Autozone or O'Reilly)
Bottom Pre-converter gasket (3-hole) Fel-Pro 60286 (stocked at Autozone $3.49)
Exhaust pipes, second converter, muffler, etc. (need three or four)
robzilla
+1y
Thanks for the info!! I was looking at that same eBay retailer. I will keep that one in mind.
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