Wiki Home \ Bucket seat release handle repair
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I used an L-shaped mending bracket from the hardware store, and drilled holes in the remaining almost-vertical stump and riveted the L-bracket onto it. The L shape gives me a horizontal piece that only needed a little grinding to re-fit the plastic handle on.
Here's what I did, posted this on mazdatrucking.com, only problem is that the photos were lost in the site crash. It looks pretty darn good, may have to take new photos to add here.
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OK, fixed it. I used a 2-inch flat corner brace from Home Depot.
Here's the part that broke off; I did bend it a tad over the years as my kids kicked it in, so that likely accelerated its breakage.
Here I'm holding the corner brace over the remaining seat lever part.
I ground down the one "arm" a little to fit into the gray plastic handle, and tapped it in.
I drilled two 1/8 inch holes in the remaining part of the lever, to align with the two holes in the corner brace (I slid a piece of wood in behind the broken lever to protect the seat from the drill bit). Then I sanded the corner brace a little and spray-painted it black.
Holding up against the broken part
I slid the gray cover on before installing the rivets because I already had the gray plastic handle tapped on. Photo with the two 1/8 inch steel rivets in place but not squeezed tight yet.
Photo after installing the rivets
I painted the rivet heads, and here's the final result.
Bucket seat release handle repair
Last Updated: Feb 24, 2015View Photos
I had this happen on mine, and I fixed it Home Depot style.
I used an L-shaped mending bracket from the hardware store, and drilled holes in the remaining almost-vertical stump and riveted the L-bracket onto it. The L shape gives me a horizontal piece that only needed a little grinding to re-fit the plastic handle on.
Here's what I did, posted this on mazdatrucking.com, only problem is that the photos were lost in the site crash. It looks pretty darn good, may have to take new photos to add here.
" target="_blank" target="_blank" target="_blank
OK, fixed it. I used a 2-inch flat corner brace from Home Depot.
Here's the part that broke off; I did bend it a tad over the years as my kids kicked it in, so that likely accelerated its breakage.
Here I'm holding the corner brace over the remaining seat lever part.
I ground down the one "arm" a little to fit into the gray plastic handle, and tapped it in.
I drilled two 1/8 inch holes in the remaining part of the lever, to align with the two holes in the corner brace (I slid a piece of wood in behind the broken lever to protect the seat from the drill bit). Then I sanded the corner brace a little and spray-painted it black.
Holding up against the broken part
I slid the gray cover on before installing the rivets because I already had the gray plastic handle tapped on. Photo with the two 1/8 inch steel rivets in place but not squeezed tight yet.
Photo after installing the rivets
I painted the rivet heads, and here's the final result.
Credits
Created By: Cusser
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kovz
+1y
Great write-up. Thank you for sharing on this board. I didn't even think to do a search for this on the site or MT when I posted my wanted to buy ad. I didn't realize it was a common problem.
I plan on welding the bracket instead of riveting (just because I have a welder, but don't own a rivet gun).
I plan on welding the bracket instead of riveting (just because I have a welder, but don't own a rivet gun).
Cusser
+1y
Me - I don't weld, and I had rivet guns, and they are inexpensive. I thought about taking it somewhere to be welded, figured they could protect the seat from damage with a sheet of something; but I would've had to find a place that could do that, didn't feel like running around town for that, plus I liked the challenge. I asked on Mazda trucking about this back then, and was told that this lever is not a simple bolt-on, that the seat would need to be dis-assembled, so a fix was worth looking into.
I use my rivet gun like once a month, but typically on non-automotive stuff, like when I braced a plastic stepstool with a metal mending bracket. Or when I had to dismantle/repair a garage door up north when my lawn tractor gear selector got out of adjustment and I had no neutral/braking, and I couldn't stop it in time and hit the flimsy garage door. That tractor repair turned out to be an easy adjustment, but I don't know how it slipped (curved slot/hold-down nut).
I use my rivet gun like once a month, but typically on non-automotive stuff, like when I braced a plastic stepstool with a metal mending bracket. Or when I had to dismantle/repair a garage door up north when my lawn tractor gear selector got out of adjustment and I had no neutral/braking, and I couldn't stop it in time and hit the flimsy garage door. That tractor repair turned out to be an easy adjustment, but I don't know how it slipped (curved slot/hold-down nut).
kovz
+1y
Not to get off topic too much, but a rivet gun is a worthy tool I'll need to invest in someday. My dad has a few that I borrow from time to time (but he lives 90 minutes away).
kovz
+1y
I bought the exact same brackets from Lowe's today. I welded mine on. Worked perfect. I used two of them sandwiched together to give it more strength.
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