Need help with torrisons

i know when i worked at a GM dealership we had this rust penetrant that was unbelieveable. i used it on my torsions on my yota to lift it a little what you need to do is get a can of brake cleaner and then a can of GM's rust penetrant. first just blast the hell out of the threads with the brake cleaner and that'll loosen any old mud or dirt that may be collected in the threads. then after that dries (usually only takes a few seconds) hit it with the rust penetrant on top, bottom, and right in between the nuts. let it sit for about 3-4 minutes then hit it again and find the longest wrench that'll fit down there and crank away.

Originally posted by tacodragnazz



assuming you do have the front end jacked up and under jack stands try an impact it will eventually come loose.

Wait a sec this maybe my whole problem.I need to have the truck on the ground?Not sitting up on jack stands?Please Help

well i know when i did my nissan i had it on the ground. my toyta was in the air tho because its really hard to crank bars up if its on the ground but lowering shouldn't matter. didn't with my nissan anyway. you might try that. just don't completely loosen them or you'll have yourself a nice frame-sized indention in your arm lol. when i unhooked my bars and put 45 series 15 inch tires on my front end it was about 2 1/2 to 3 inches off the ground. but that was hell on my front end and my shock towers. i ended up hooking the bars back up and still had a hell of a drop.

Yes KEEP THE TRUCK ON JACK STANDS! If something were to go wrong during the loosening of the tie rod it could shoot out. Thats what I hear at least... thats if you have it on the ground. With the truck in the air the suspension is suspended and therefore takes a lot of pressure off of the actual suspension units.

Keep it on stands!

As for loosening...

Simply take a 1/2" ratchet and bit that fits on your bolt. Then take a piece of metal tubing or square bar that may be laying around and slide it over the ratchet and then pull hard and it'll break. Anotherword for using a bar like that is "A breaker bar" the longer it is the more torque you're putting on the ratchet when turning.

Once it's broken loose it'll be easy to turn without the breaker bar. Then watch the front as you'll probably bottom out the front bump stops.

I lowered my isuzu for free by mono-leafing it in the rear with a 1/4" spacer plate for the UBolts and then I modified a set of full size chevy air shocks that used to by on my 87 fullsize to fit on the back. The truck does not bottom out in the rear this way. I did have to remove the bump stops though.

As for the front I loosened the T-Bars like you're doing but right now I just looked yesterday and I'm on the bump stops. I will be unbolting those today to see just how low it actually is.

Good luck and if you need anymore help PM me or call me 865-696-7604 and ill try to help you out.

LEAVE IT ON JACK STANDS THAT IS WHAT I WAS MAKING SURE YOU WERE DOING. IT TAKES PRESSURE OFF AND IS ALOT SAFER.

I still having a problem with this.
Those damn nuts wont break loose.
Also could I just flip my ball joints?
That would give me a 3in drop right?
Do I need a kit to do this?
What are the disavantges to doing a ball joint flip.
Thanks Again

Just cut them off with a torch....fuckem you dont need them......LOL...Just kidding they are a bitch......I just too k mine out and bagged it.......

Originally posted by 1RawToy



Just cut them off with a torch....fuckem you dont need them......LOL...Just kidding they are a bitch......I just too k mine out and bagged it.......

yea, def dont do that, well if you wanna keep your fingers, LOL, PB Blaster, a wrench, and a breaker bar with the handle of my harbor freight jack is what i used, it was a fuckin bitch, but they finally gave up n i won