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Mazda Trucks \  How low with torsions?

How low with torsions?

Mazda Trucks Make Specific
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TheShibbster   +1y
How low can u go by cranking hte torsion bars? i did about 2.5" 2 months ago and in the spring i want more..im gonna pull some leafs in the back with a 3" block to get what i want in the back. OH and before I forget where do I want to buy drop shocks from?
DodgeRT   +1y
u can take em completely out
TheShibbster   +1y
Ok but how much of a drop will it give? and taking them out...is that ok to do?
Low_SST   +1y
i dont know how cool it will be riding on bumpstops and shocks.
brandon005   +1y
don't take them out you will have a hella bumpy ride but you can go really low with torsions take them out and respline them and put them back in that way they won't get the adjustment bolt ripped off(I can't explain resplining someone else will have to help me) but you can get really low without bags
Low_SST   +1y
you could probably pull them out and rotate them and reinstall them.
TheShibbster   +1y
OK well by just cranking them down....how low can I go??
dssur   +1y
Originally posted by Low_SST



you could probably pull them out and rotate them and reinstall them.

you SHOULD do this, if you lower it more than about 3 inches with the torsions without reindexing them (removing them, turning them a bit and reinstalling) they will hang lower than the frame and get caught on EVERYTHING.

Without changing the front shocks and cutting the bumpstops down a bit, you can only lower the front about 3-4 inches. Now guys will say they went lower, and they may have, but the stock shocks will break any lower than 3-4. If you get some good short shocks (the early 4x4 ford explorers had some nice short ones if you dont want to buy custom) and you cut the bumpstops down/out, you can lower it a LOT.

Alternatively, you could also "flip" the upper and lower balljoints. You dont actually flip them, you remove them from their mounting on the BOTTOM of the control arms, and re mount them on the TOP of the control arms. You'll need to cut the hump off the top of the lower arm to allow it to sit flat, and you will need to clearance the bottom of the lower arm to allow the bolts to bolt back in from the bottom side. Flipping the lower balljoints gives you about an inch of drop, and flipping the upper balljoint corrects some of the negative camber you get from rolling low. For static dropped trucks, its the cats meow. Best of all you can still use the same shocks, because you didnt change the angle of the lower arm, you only changed the position the spindle mounted in relation to it.

Now if you cut out the bumpstops, flip the balljoints, and get short shocks, you can roll VERY low with a nice plush ride. Its awesome doing it RIGHT. Dont forget to reindex those torsions though or you will drag the adjusters off or worse, pull them off in a driveway! You just put a reference mark on the torsion bar and a matching mark on the splined mount on the lower arm, then take the torsion ALL THE WAY out and turn it a few teeth so that you have to turn the adjuster up higher to get to the same ride height. This keeps the adjusters up higher than the frame.

Good Luck! Let me know if you want some 15x10 KMC hammers to complete the old school look haha.
TheShibbster   +1y
Edited: 1/19/2006 9:53:46 AM by TheShibbster

Still have those spindles?

Cause if anything I can get that extra 2" easily with those.
dssur   +1y
Originally posted by TheShibbster



Edited: 1/19/2006 9:53:46 AM by TheShibbster

Still have those spindles?

Cause if anything I can get that extra 2" easily with those.



yes, but you'd need at least 16" wheels to use spindles... The tie rods bind on the inner rim with 15's or less.