threads
Page 3 of 4
Chevy/GMC Trucks \  67-72 C-10 Sectioned Crossmember

67-72 C-10 Sectioned Crossmember

Chevy/GMC Trucks Make Specific
views 14554
replies 31
following 22
 
MRCO   +1y
bump
time1   +1y
Originally posted by blazedbowtie82



Lol, honest mistake. We're sectioning for height reasons. I'm not fond of Z'ing frames, so my buddy and I have been working on doing it to both our trucks.

My Z was alot less work than a sectioned crossmember. I didnt have to do anything with my steering.
DawgsledMazda   +1y
the crossmembers are the same for all the 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton trucks as long as they are 2 wheel drive. the arms all mount the same but have small differences.

the later (73-87) arms will fit trucks back to 63.

you can section (cut 1.5") off the bottom of the frame and Z the front 2.5" and lay cab without doing a body drop.

plus Energy Suspension also make aftermarket polyurethane body mounts that are about an inch shorter than the height of the stock mounts.

theres several ways of doing this. its just a matter of doing some research as to the best way for your particular setup.

the wheel and tire size is also a factor as to which is best for your ride.

http://www.builtbybyc.com/86chevy


FloorVair   +1y
You got a part # for those bushing mike?
DawgsledMazda   +1y
energy suspension part numbers

firm mounts, 9.4101
sticks up about 1" above the frame mount.

softer mount, 9.4102

sticks up about 1&1/4" above the frame mount.


to buy any of these, email me, or try Suspension restoration products company. the guy to ask for is Bruce.

www.suspension.com

or www.builtbybyc.com

TwistedMinis   +1y
Originally posted by TiMe_1



Originally posted by blazedbowtie82



Lol, honest mistake. We're sectioning for height reasons. I'm not fond of Z'ing frames, so my buddy and I have been working on doing it to both our trucks.

My Z was alot less work than a sectioned crossmember. I didnt have to do anything with my steering.



This may be true, Tim. However, I just don't like the idea of Z'ing my frame, and my buddy with this Chevy didn't either. It's nothing agaisn't your truck or the way you did it, but I felt more comfortable doing it this way. Also, ont he Chevys, it's a very big 'Z' and the steerign has to be messed with either way.
FloorVair   +1y
Yeah, either way im looking at it, im going to have to do something with the steeting shaft. Still havent quite made up my mind on it. Gotta get some room in the shop before i even think about it really. Thanks for everyones input, its helped me a bunch
TwistedMinis   +1y
I'm still going to try to get you some piictures. I have to run over to his house tomorrow to use the notcher, so, I'll stick my camera in the truck tonight. If you got tubular arms, you'd hardly have to modify anything. Just put the steering linkage on the bottom side of the spindles.
yotablazer   +1y
i sectioned my xmember 2 1/4 inchs. i also raised my loer balljoints 1 1/2. it dawm near lifts the front wheels off the ground with 20's. with the steering i got rid of all the stock crap and put in a rack and pinion. also notched the frame for the steering. so far i have never had one problem and didnt lose any turning and i can lay it out and still turn the wheels side to side.
TwistedMinis   +1y
Okay, I went over to his house to use the notcher. He wasn't there, so I wasn't going go into his truck to pop the hood, because I know I wouldn't want someine in my truck if I wasn't there. But I took a shot from underneath. Luckily he had it lifted, lol.

You can see where the arms were notched for the bolts ont he frame. Also, you can just about see where the steering linkage hits the arms. Cut them and plate the top and you'll be golden. Flip the steering linkage to the bottom side of the knuckle, and you're laid out on 20s basically. To go bigger, you need dropped arms, or you need to drop your own, or space the baljoints out if possible.
post photo