pinion prob

got a 3 link goin on my ranger, i have the lowers all mounted and good to go now im on the top bar....i modeled everything on solidworks and i have come up with two options for the pinion, either i can be 3 degrees off at the trans and axle or i can be 10 degrees off at the trans and zero at the axle, which option is better

3 and 3 sounds about right to me

3 and 3. U joints are not to designed to run at o degerees.

they are not designed to work at a 0 degree working angle, you can have your pinion angle on the rear end at 0 and your tranny at 0, but if your ride height allows your driveshaft to have a 3 degree angle, you are good, because that gives you a 3 degree working angle at each joint. you should have the joints equally opposite to be balanced. but im sure im not completely right on that, do a search and check out some of the other pinion angle threads, andy on here has given some nice help previously.

and another thing what is everybodys basis for positioning the top triangulated bars versus the bottom...im doing models and if i change the location of the bar by about a 1/4" it takes a turn for the worse and can put the pinion angle at like 10degrees at a lifted height, this adjustable shit is so hilarious cause all its for is to hit a flippin switch and lift it up...i think im getting too involved in this crap

Originally posted by bdroppeddak



they are not designed to work at a 0 degree working angle, you can have your pinion angle on the rear end at 0 and your tranny at 0, but if your ride height allows your driveshaft to have a 3 degree angle, you are good, because that gives you a 3 degree working angle at each joint. you should have the joints equally opposite to be balanced. but im sure im not completely right on that, do a search and check out some of the other pinion angle threads, andy on here has given some nice help previously.

Sounds good to me. George you can run either uppers or lowers triangulated.

hey andy soon i will be test driving my fullsize, i used the knowledge you shared to straighten out the 2 piece shaft, hopefully it will work

The proof is in tha puddin.

how do you position top bars to bottom and what length is the right length for the bars....and whats is the correct way of setting driveshaft position, how far should it go into the trans at a certain height....there has gotta be a certain way in which to do a 4 link or 3 link isnt there? im trying to build a 3 link and i have seen many applications but im lost on the correct way as to building it and having a good angle for the driveshaft, like what degree at what height....HELP please ineed hellp

Well, one question at a time helps (yeah I'm an ass) but....
1. how do you position top bars to bottom and what length is the right length for the bars
Both level at right height is fine. If someone beats you by a tenth in a drag race then we can work on it. Length would be the longest that you can fit that is practical. Practical being close to 30" long on the straights and whatever you need on the triangulated to match the mounting points of the straights (ones parralel to your frame)

2. and whats is the correct way of setting driveshaft position, how far should it go into the trans at a certain height
Your driveshaft should never go into your trans (obviously I'm being an ass here, I don't think that's what you meant) If you set your links like above there won't be a big front to back movement. Just make sure that the slip yoke doesn't bottom out on your trans in the dropped pose.
3.there has gotta be a certain way in which to do a 4 link or 3 link isnt there?
That's more of an opinion. There are many
ways to do it.
4.trying to build a 3 link and i have seen many applications but im lost on the correct way as to building it and having a good angle for the driveshaft, like what degree at what height
4. It should be within 3 degrees working angle at each end at ride height.
5.....HELP please ineed hellp
I tried.