Fuel cell inspection questions

Heres a side of one cell I started making. I just measured the stock depth where the sender sat and made the entire cell that depth.

Originally posted by periportfd



Well for the inspection, just get your stock filler and cut the tube off just behind the metal flap. Then put a properly working stock cap on it. During inspection, they only take the cap off and test it. They don't climb under your car to see where the tube goes. Cover the cell with some cardboard box or other junk. For your fuel system, I'm unclear on how you intend to run it. I thought you were going to run the complete stock setup and plug all the holes that the cell came with? I'm building a cell right now and all you really need to do is make the adapter bung (like you already did). Hook up the lines like stock. Make sure the level sender has enough travel and bend the float so when your tank is empty it reads empty. (Depending on the depth of your stock tank compared to the new cell it may read less than full but at least you know when it's empty. If you don't run the stock lines you are going to trigger the check engine light so it won't pass anyway at least under OBDII....what year is that truck?

my truck is a 97 and the only port i was planning on using on the cell was the rollover vent to vent it but i wasnt sure if it was necessary. the only vents my stock tank had was in the filler and the one in the pump that goes to the charcoal canister.

As far as my sender goes im just going to fill it to full and see where that gets me and the measure then just run it til its empty to see where that is, it should be pretty close to the stock readings.

If you are using all of the factory lines you don't need to add anything. Just plug up all of the holes in the cell. Also make sure the aftermarket cap matches your factory (vented or non vented)

You mention a vent in the filler? Are you talking about the overflow line? When you fill gas there is a ball in the filler by the tank that shuts when the tank is full. The fuel poured after that returns through that line so you don't spill gas everywhere. Ever noticed when the pump shuts off and you keep trying to pump more the gas fills up to the top and then slowly drops? That magical place is that overfill tube back to the tank.

When I went for my inspection... the lady walked around my truck about 4 times before asking me where my gas door was...(cause the gas door is shaved) then I told her it had a fuel cell... then she smiled and said "O like one of those hybrid future cars huh" And I agreed and she called over her manager... then he looked and smiled and asked me some more dumb quesions and passed my truck.... I just laughed..

i was gonna substitute a vented cap for a sealed one and use my rollover vent for my main vent. Would that work?

If you want to pass smog (at least in Cali) you can't have the tank open to atmosphere.
The vent idea is if you don't care. If you hook up the cannister, you don't need an additional vent. If there was a gun to my head this is how I would do it.
Option 1. Pass smog.
- connect the lines like original off your sender.
- get a sealed cap
- plug everything else.
- place stock dummy cap in fuel door on cut fill tube.
Option 2. Fuck up the universe.
- get a sealed cap
- connect one port on the tank to a fuel line and zip tie a loop in it (approx 6" diameter)or locate the stock cannister line and do the same.
- hook the pressure line from your stock sender to the fuel supply line.
- hook the stock return into the stock return of the sender.
-plug everything else up.

In other words, to get a fuel injected system to work you need 3 lines (unless its a nonreturn system). A feed, a return and a vent. It's up to you if you want to vent direct to atmosphere or through the charcoal cannister.