sweeden
+1y
lol he aint got it like that dude..... I hope u got a jig cuz as soon as u go to z that frame that shit is goin both ways haha
hammered
+1y
here is the link to the b/d chassis for c-10s
http://www.killerridez.com/C-10%20FRAMES.htm
http://www.killerridez.com/C-10%20FRAMES.htm
LAYEDOUT69
+1y
Originally posted by LaidOutFab
just use flat circle plates for the bottom bag mounts. For it to lay flat it will have to be Z'd (Cut behind the shock mount and in front of the steering sector and raise it up 3--3 1/2 inchesyou mean lower the frame sections. The crossmember stays in the same spot, you are dropping the body around it by doing this. The equalivent to a C notch for the front. Go 4" just get ready for all the steering complications !
just use flat circle plates for the bottom bag mounts. For it to lay flat it will have to be Z'd (Cut behind the shock mount and in front of the steering sector and raise it up 3--3 1/2 inchesyou mean lower the frame sections. The crossmember stays in the same spot, you are dropping the body around it by doing this. The equalivent to a C notch for the front. Go 4" just get ready for all the steering complications !
onehot69stepside
+1y
Edited: 5/14/2006 3:31:21 AM by onehot69stepside
Edited: 5/14/2006 3:25:56 AM by onehot69stepside
You z the frame 3-1/2" and then youll need 3 steering u joints and a heims joint, to hold the intermediate shaft, to move the steering shaft around the upper control arm on the left side. Also there is a section of the frame under the firewall that hangs lower. That will need to be trimmed. Thats pretty much the easiest way but not my preference.
67-72chevytrucks.com has ALOT of info on their forums on these trucks. The frames are almost the same all the way from 63-87. The Front suspension is the same except for in 73 they went to rubber bushings rather than the old school screw bushing chingaderas.
I can build arms for them. Actually... If I could find a mustang rack and pinion with an extended amount of travel (with a regular stang rack it takes 3 lanes to make a u turn), I could section your crossmemeber 3 inches, widen it 1/4 inch (the inner tie rod ends center to center measurement on a must rack is 24"... The center to center measurement on the factory center link is 23-3/4"), and build mounts to mount the rack to the crossmember. The only thing that would have to be cut on the front frame would be the drop down section i was talking about under the firewall and you would have to put a little notch in the frame to clear the tie rod ends. Oh, and custom motor mounts because the steering shaft would go between the motor and the frame... possibly even headers.
This guy named bill turner i think made crossmemebers for these trucks to lay out flat. He built custom arms for them and mounted a rack and pinion to the front. He went out of business. He owed alot of people their parts... kinda like the BYC situation.
OR you can just use the factory crossmember on new 2 x 4 framerails built on a frame table. Snoop around on ifcustom.com for pics of this. They did it on the shop floor which probably makes it garbage. But they got the right idea. You dont want the truck goin down the road crooked so they must be done on a frame table.
There is a awesome home built chassis on the suspension forum of 67-72chevytrucks.com. There are some good build pics of it on the frame table and complete with a fully polished fuel injected small block in it. Its so sick!
Edited: 5/14/2006 3:25:56 AM by onehot69stepside
You z the frame 3-1/2" and then youll need 3 steering u joints and a heims joint, to hold the intermediate shaft, to move the steering shaft around the upper control arm on the left side. Also there is a section of the frame under the firewall that hangs lower. That will need to be trimmed. Thats pretty much the easiest way but not my preference.
67-72chevytrucks.com has ALOT of info on their forums on these trucks. The frames are almost the same all the way from 63-87. The Front suspension is the same except for in 73 they went to rubber bushings rather than the old school screw bushing chingaderas.
I can build arms for them. Actually... If I could find a mustang rack and pinion with an extended amount of travel (with a regular stang rack it takes 3 lanes to make a u turn), I could section your crossmemeber 3 inches, widen it 1/4 inch (the inner tie rod ends center to center measurement on a must rack is 24"... The center to center measurement on the factory center link is 23-3/4"), and build mounts to mount the rack to the crossmember. The only thing that would have to be cut on the front frame would be the drop down section i was talking about under the firewall and you would have to put a little notch in the frame to clear the tie rod ends. Oh, and custom motor mounts because the steering shaft would go between the motor and the frame... possibly even headers.
This guy named bill turner i think made crossmemebers for these trucks to lay out flat. He built custom arms for them and mounted a rack and pinion to the front. He went out of business. He owed alot of people their parts... kinda like the BYC situation.
OR you can just use the factory crossmember on new 2 x 4 framerails built on a frame table. Snoop around on ifcustom.com for pics of this. They did it on the shop floor which probably makes it garbage. But they got the right idea. You dont want the truck goin down the road crooked so they must be done on a frame table.
There is a awesome home built chassis on the suspension forum of 67-72chevytrucks.com. There are some good build pics of it on the frame table and complete with a fully polished fuel injected small block in it. Its so sick!
Dragthatchit
+1y
Edited: 5/14/2006 3:31:21 AM by onehot69stepside
Edited: 5/14/2006 3:25:56 AM by onehot69stepside
You z the frame 3-1/2" and then youll need 3 steering u joints and a heims joint, to hold the intermediate shaft, to move the steering shaft around the upper control arm on the left side. Also there is a section of the frame under the firewall that hangs lower. That will need to be trimmed. Thats pretty much the easiest way but not my preference.
67-72chevytrucks.com has ALOT of info on their forums on these trucks. The frames are almost the same all the way from 63-87. The Front suspension is the same except for in 73 they went to rubber bushings rather than the old school screw bushing chingaderas.
I can build arms for them. Actually... If I could find a mustang rack and pinion with an extended amount of travel (with a regular stang rack it takes 3 lanes to make a u turn), I could section your crossmemeber 3 inches, widen it 1/4 inch (the inner tie rod ends center to center measurement on a must rack is 24"... The center to center measurement on the factory center link is 23-3/4"), and build mounts to mount the rack to the crossmember. The only thing that would have to be cut on the front frame would be the drop down section i was talking about under the firewall and you would have to put a little notch in the frame to clear the tie rod ends. Oh, and custom motor mounts because the steering shaft would go between the motor and the frame... possibly even headers.
This guy named bill turner i think made crossmemebers for these trucks to lay out flat. He built custom arms for them and mounted a rack and pinion to the front. He went out of business. He owed alot of people their parts... kinda like the BYC situation.
OR you can just use the factory crossmember on new 2 x 4 framerails built on a frame table. Snoop around on ifcustom.com for pics of this. They did it on the shop floor which probably makes it garbage. But they got the right idea. You dont want the truck goin down the road crooked so they must be done on a frame table.
There is a awesome home built chassis on the suspension forum of 67-72chevytrucks.com. There are some good build pics of it on the frame table and complete with a fully polished fuel injected small block in it. Its so sick!
----------------------
Can u ever comment to a question without talking shit about somebody??? Now ur doggin one of the most reputeable shops in this f-ing sport, IF, Dude get the hell outta here if u cant keep ur shitty comments to ur self, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!
Edited: 5/14/2006 3:25:56 AM by onehot69stepside
You z the frame 3-1/2" and then youll need 3 steering u joints and a heims joint, to hold the intermediate shaft, to move the steering shaft around the upper control arm on the left side. Also there is a section of the frame under the firewall that hangs lower. That will need to be trimmed. Thats pretty much the easiest way but not my preference.
67-72chevytrucks.com has ALOT of info on their forums on these trucks. The frames are almost the same all the way from 63-87. The Front suspension is the same except for in 73 they went to rubber bushings rather than the old school screw bushing chingaderas.
I can build arms for them. Actually... If I could find a mustang rack and pinion with an extended amount of travel (with a regular stang rack it takes 3 lanes to make a u turn), I could section your crossmemeber 3 inches, widen it 1/4 inch (the inner tie rod ends center to center measurement on a must rack is 24"... The center to center measurement on the factory center link is 23-3/4"), and build mounts to mount the rack to the crossmember. The only thing that would have to be cut on the front frame would be the drop down section i was talking about under the firewall and you would have to put a little notch in the frame to clear the tie rod ends. Oh, and custom motor mounts because the steering shaft would go between the motor and the frame... possibly even headers.
This guy named bill turner i think made crossmemebers for these trucks to lay out flat. He built custom arms for them and mounted a rack and pinion to the front. He went out of business. He owed alot of people their parts... kinda like the BYC situation.
OR you can just use the factory crossmember on new 2 x 4 framerails built on a frame table. Snoop around on ifcustom.com for pics of this. They did it on the shop floor which probably makes it garbage. But they got the right idea. You dont want the truck goin down the road crooked so they must be done on a frame table.
There is a awesome home built chassis on the suspension forum of 67-72chevytrucks.com. There are some good build pics of it on the frame table and complete with a fully polished fuel injected small block in it. Its so sick!
----------------------
Can u ever comment to a question without talking shit about somebody??? Now ur doggin one of the most reputeable shops in this f-ing sport, IF, Dude get the hell outta here if u cant keep ur shitty comments to ur self, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!
burningrubber81
+1y
haha I was thinking the same thing. It's o.k. to do it on the floor like IF did. That's how I did mine and it goes down the road straight as an arrow.
Dragthatchit
+1y
Originally posted by burningrubber81
haha I was thinking the same thing. It's o.k. to do it on the floor like IF did. That's how I did mine and it goes down the road straight as an arrow.
Thank u!!! Isnt that y we have tape measures and squares!!!! Im pretty sure somebody with a rep like IF can measure a frame square from anywhere, as could anybody if they know how to add some numbers!!! Not all of us hav the fancy equipment like that guy with the red stepside above seems to have
haha I was thinking the same thing. It's o.k. to do it on the floor like IF did. That's how I did mine and it goes down the road straight as an arrow.
Thank u!!! Isnt that y we have tape measures and squares!!!! Im pretty sure somebody with a rep like IF can measure a frame square from anywhere, as could anybody if they know how to add some numbers!!! Not all of us hav the fancy equipment like that guy with the red stepside above seems to have
sweeden
+1y
all I know is that lukes truck is kick ass.... even if the bitch went down the street crooked hahahahah.. probabley not a good idea to come on here and rag on IF though
Dragthatchit
+1y
Originally posted by sweeden
.... even if the bitch went down the street crooked hahahahah.. probabley not a good idea to come on here and rag on IF though
This is all im sayin,
.... even if the bitch went down the street crooked hahahahah.. probabley not a good idea to come on here and rag on IF though
This is all im sayin,
TwistedMinis
+1y
Originally posted by stricker1
C-10s aren't exactly done everyday so arms are gonna be ali hard to find
You can get adjustable upper arms for this truck from Summit. They're fully adjustable. I believe Speedway has some too, and possibly cheaper.
To lay one of these out, if you section the crossmember 1.5" you can lay flat on 20s, and it does not move the motor up. For 22s you'd have to Z it a little more, but the motor wouldnt be raised up so much.
C-10s aren't exactly done everyday so arms are gonna be ali hard to find
You can get adjustable upper arms for this truck from Summit. They're fully adjustable. I believe Speedway has some too, and possibly cheaper.
To lay one of these out, if you section the crossmember 1.5" you can lay flat on 20s, and it does not move the motor up. For 22s you'd have to Z it a little more, but the motor wouldnt be raised up so much.