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Air Ride Suspensions \ Custom SQUARE TUBE Control ArmsCustom SQUARE TUBE Control Arms
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replies 29
following 17
rizz0
+1y
i agree with seth, when you want to make the uppers adjustable you need to put the bushing straight not on an angle. you might be able to adjust a little but at the expense of the bushing. but on the square part i think they look badass. props on the style. just make your bushing straight instead of on an angle and you will have some kick ass arms. oh and how the hell do you get a bushing into that upper arm
streetsweeper1
+1y
Originally posted by blazedbowtie82
Originally posted by stockflooredsdime
Edited: 5/17/2006 11:28:01 PM by stockflooredsdime
And why is the upper adjustable? Threading them in or out will onyl cause them to fit incorrectly?
Having both the upper and lower control arms adjustable makes it easier to set correct allignment & to fine tune suspension dynamics. I also like how it looks.
What I was referring to is the upper arm. The angle at which the threads are, the bushings would get farther apart, or closer. So what I was gathering is that if you wanted to suck the top in more, for more camber say, that the bushings wouldnt allow it because they would hit the mount. Going out more they would widen, probably not much at all, but would still probably fit.
Ahh...Now I get what you're saying. Yes the bushings will squeeze in or widen based on how much threading you want to do. The mount was designed to accept billet shims on the inner part of the mount so when the rod end studs are pulled out you will need to add 1 or 2 billet shims. The best way to avoid using shims is to design the control arm to be a little shorter to accept Multi-angle adjusters:They are a little longer due to the extra joint in the middle. jake decided not to use these and went with the angled rod end studs.
Originally posted by stockflooredsdime
Edited: 5/17/2006 11:28:01 PM by stockflooredsdime
And why is the upper adjustable? Threading them in or out will onyl cause them to fit incorrectly?
Having both the upper and lower control arms adjustable makes it easier to set correct allignment & to fine tune suspension dynamics. I also like how it looks.
What I was referring to is the upper arm. The angle at which the threads are, the bushings would get farther apart, or closer. So what I was gathering is that if you wanted to suck the top in more, for more camber say, that the bushings wouldnt allow it because they would hit the mount. Going out more they would widen, probably not much at all, but would still probably fit.
Ahh...Now I get what you're saying. Yes the bushings will squeeze in or widen based on how much threading you want to do. The mount was designed to accept billet shims on the inner part of the mount so when the rod end studs are pulled out you will need to add 1 or 2 billet shims. The best way to avoid using shims is to design the control arm to be a little shorter to accept Multi-angle adjusters:They are a little longer due to the extra joint in the middle. jake decided not to use these and went with the angled rod end studs.
TwistedMinis
+1y
Originally posted by streetsweeper1
Originally posted by blazedbowtie82
Originally posted by stockflooredsdime
Edited: 5/17/2006 11:28:01 PM by stockflooredsdime
And why is the upper adjustable? Threading them in or out will onyl cause them to fit incorrectly?
Having both the upper and lower control arms adjustable makes it easier to set correct allignment & to fine tune suspension dynamics. I also like how it looks.
What I was referring to is the upper arm. The angle at which the threads are, the bushings would get farther apart, or closer. So what I was gathering is that if you wanted to suck the top in more, for more camber say, that the bushings wouldnt allow it because they would hit the mount. Going out more they would widen, probably not much at all, but would still probably fit.
Ahh...Now I get what you're saying. Yes the bushings will squeeze in or widen based on how much threading you want to do. The mount was designed to accept billet shims on the inner part of the mount so when the rod end studs are pulled out you will need to add 1 or 2 billet shims. The best way to avoid using shims is to design the control arm to be a little shorter to accept Multi-angle adjusters:They are a little longer due to the extra joint in the middle. jake decided not to use these and went with the angled rod end studs.
Where can I get multi-angle bushings like that?
Originally posted by blazedbowtie82
Originally posted by stockflooredsdime
Edited: 5/17/2006 11:28:01 PM by stockflooredsdime
And why is the upper adjustable? Threading them in or out will onyl cause them to fit incorrectly?
Having both the upper and lower control arms adjustable makes it easier to set correct allignment & to fine tune suspension dynamics. I also like how it looks.
What I was referring to is the upper arm. The angle at which the threads are, the bushings would get farther apart, or closer. So what I was gathering is that if you wanted to suck the top in more, for more camber say, that the bushings wouldnt allow it because they would hit the mount. Going out more they would widen, probably not much at all, but would still probably fit.
Ahh...Now I get what you're saying. Yes the bushings will squeeze in or widen based on how much threading you want to do. The mount was designed to accept billet shims on the inner part of the mount so when the rod end studs are pulled out you will need to add 1 or 2 billet shims. The best way to avoid using shims is to design the control arm to be a little shorter to accept Multi-angle adjusters:They are a little longer due to the extra joint in the middle. jake decided not to use these and went with the angled rod end studs.
Where can I get multi-angle bushings like that?