adjusting brake sensitivity?

yes, its a new booster and master cylinder. and what is bench bleeding? i bled the brakes, is that the same thing? also, i saw a nut typed contraption inside the booster when i was installing it, its where the master cylinder slides inside the booster. the nut thing is inside that hole. it looked like it could be adjusted. could that help? and thanks potter & jason!

and potter i dont know if my new booster is a universal or what but its a 7". ill find out what brand it is from where i got it.

can you get some pictures of the setup?

also, how did you hook it up? did you take our your portorioning valve? or did you reverse it so the connections would line up?

bench bleeding gets rid of air in the MC

Edited: 8/16/2006 8:01:40 PM by bdroppeddak

ooh russell, you shoulda bench bled the master cylinder. what it means is you put it in a vice or something (wrap it in a towel, and clamp it on the flange that bolts to the booster), either plug the holes or have plugs with lines that will go over into the reservoir, fill the reservior, use a screwdriver or bolt or whatever and pump the master cylinder slowly until you cant push it by hand and there are no bubbles coming out of the reservoir.

its still possible to "bench bleed" it on the truck, do all the above, but be very easy when pumping it with the pedal.

and i hope mike told you where to go to get the new lines to hook up to the truck....

yes it is possible to bleed the MC on the truck, have some one sit in the truck. do it in the this order.1 loosen only 1 of the lines comin off the MC. 2 have ur buddie push the pedal to the floor(DONT LET OFF) till you have 3 tightened the fitting up. i do it w/ the cap on and do one till theres no air, the do the other, top it off then re bleed the brakes.

Russell after i read some of these replys it got me thinkin a little more.you may need to get a adjustable proportioing valve from someone like wilwood or maybe someone of that nature that maybe does big brake kits but heres just a thought when you did your booster and all was your truck a power brake truck when you did this conversion?because if it was not the problem maybe in the rod from the brake pedal to the booster/mc on a manaul brake system they used a longer push rod and if you used that rod it may not let you get full use of your brakes

ok well after reading that im gunna say i did bench bleed it then.

and cris i didnt replace the p.valve so i only had to replace the lines going from the top of the valve to the MC. i bent those myself. maybe ill let u look at it and see what u think tomorrow.

Edited: 8/17/2006 5:35:22 AM by JasonZ

This might be a quick an easy thing to try. Run your front brake line (should be your front two calipers T'd together) to the port on your master for the front brakes, with no proportioning valve anywhere in the equation. Go take that down the street.... if you can't come close to damn near locking up the front brakes, you have problems elsewhere. The majority of your braking comes from the front brakes, so let's focus on whether or not you can even generate enough line pressure from the master before worrying about adjusting prop. valves.

Second, I've never seen one like this but you said there was an adjustable nut? where the pushrod on the master met the pushrod in the booster? If this be the case you might want to take a few minutes with a pair of dial calipers and check the travel that your master needs (in relation to the mounting flange) and the travel the pushrod is moving in relation to the mounting surface on the booster.

Edited: 8/19/2006 1:26:20 AM by badfish57

is yours a single or a duall diaphram booster?... if its a single you might as well toss it to the curb.. My friend has a 7in duall diaphragm booster and 20's its about as good as the stock one.. its still going to stop kinda like a fright train unless you upgrade your brakes to larger rotters and calipers..