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Air Ride Suspensions \  What type of welder

What type of welder

Air Ride Suspensions Q & A
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replies 20
following 19
 
1 LoWfUKn RaM   +1y
miller
whynotfab   +1y
I'm personally sticking with Miller.. and for framework, go with a 175 or higher.
91 drggn dime   +1y
I have a Clarke welder. 110v 130 amp to be exact. I have bd'ed 2 trucks with it and have done a ton of misc shit with it from a few notches to some other stuff. A friend and I have welded together SD's 4 links and gotten more penetration on em then jason did (not that jason didnt get badass penetration).. so a 110v is good for 1/4 if you know how to use it. I dont have 220v access so i bought my 110v and i will be building my frame with it. I havent ever shut it off or anything, the only problem i've had is my sleeve keeps fucking up. I'd have 2 so far and will need another one soon. The wire catches inside of it and brakes, i have to completey take the handle all apart to get the wire to feed all the way through, its like it hits a coil inside of it and melts the tip to it and wont feed anymore. but for 450, it wasnt a bad price.
bdroppeddak   +1y
just got this sweet puppy in, gonna build a bulldozer box with it:

post photo
Gangsta Boogie   +1y
go with nothing less than a 220 volt mig for framework. 110 migs are usually rated for 3/16" mild steel but only at optimum conditions. many companies like to stretch the capabilities of 110 mig welders. I personally dont use one on anything thicker than 1/8". you can also do alot more with a 220 volt when you get more experienced, such as spray transfer welding. Its also alot easier to learn with a machine that is made for the job you are trying to do. if you are cheap about it then only your work and learning process suffers, you dont make out by getting the cheaper welder.
crippled4life   +1y
ive welded a frame with 110 and it looks like it works but when u roll out and your back half falls off u'll wish u would have gotten a 220
lwono   +1y
i would also suggest a 220V welder. i have a millermatic 251 and love it, i like lincoln and miller and hobart is owned by miller i think, so no problems with them. you can weld a good amount of stuff up with a 110V welder, if you know what you are doing. running with gas will make it easier to weld and can produce a better looking weld. there is nothing wrong with flux core. there are two different types, one with gas, and one without, the one with gas(dual shield) is a great wire to run, awesome penetration, way easy, and looks good. without gas (inner shield) is a good wire to if you know what you are doing. same with MIG or hardwire, its a good wire, but if you don't know what you are doing, you can get good looking bead, but crappy penetration. either way, make sure you practice a good amount and feel very comfortable, maybe even do some destructive test or have a weld bent with a hydrualic machine before you go and weld on something as important as a frame.
kotalaynframe   +1y
I DONE BAG MOUNTS WITH 110 WITH 2 PASSES AND IT HELD UP FINE FOR 2 YEARS BUT I WOULD GO WITH A 220 I HAVE A SMALL LINCOLN 110 FOR MISC THINGS AND I HAVE MY MILLERMATIC 210 FOR ALL MY HEAVY WORK THE 210 IS THE SHIT
draggindually   +1y
I also have a Miller 251, can't ask for anything better! I use a Miller 135 for sheetmetal work. I would suggest a Miller 175, good all around welder and cheap price. With a liner/wire swap you can do sheetmetal or framework. And it will put out enough amperage to penetrate what you would use it for
framescr8pintoy   +1y
i was planning on buying a miller dvi. but then decided to just get a miller 210. i weld everything from sheetmetal to frames and gates. think this would be a good decision to buy?