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American Cars \  Baggin a 94 Caprice

Baggin a 94 Caprice

American Cars General Discussions
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replies 20
following 13
 
xmdragonass   +1y
arite fine i'll tell ya how its done... i have a 93 caprice that lays FLAT front to back.... on mine... front is done just like a fullsize chevy, trim out spring pockets, cut down bag cups, notch frame for tie rods, remove fenders and relocate things and your done, simple as pie, the rear however... sux ASS, BUT, the end results are WELL WELL worth it so stick with it... on mine, it wouldnt lay out with the stock arms, so i took all 4 off, cut them in half, extended all of them 1 1/4" ( u dont wanna go much more because the driveshaft will pull outta the tranny too far), extending them will allow it to lay out.. i notched the frame for 20s with a monster notch, put bags as a over the axle setup, had to notch the rear x-memmber in front of the rear end for the driveshaft for hitting it, reinforce that with a notch and gussets, cut out the bottoms on the sides of the x-member for the lower arms to travel up high enuf to lay out, reinforce those, notch the floor of the car out to the back of the front seats for driveshaft clearance rubbing on floor, and thats about it... build half of a new custom backseat and custom trunk floor and notch cover, i cant stress enuf how important it is to notch out and REINFORCE the cut-outs youll need to do on that rear x-member... that x-member is weak as shit and EVERY caprice owner ive talked to has had problems down the road wehter it be a few weeks or a few months to a year... they all have problems with it tearing or cracking down the middle of it or ripping away from the frame rails... so make sure to keep it REAL strong... ne more questions let me know, check out the link if u need any pics they'll be there...http://www.streetsourcemag.com/ViewOwnerProfile.aspx?ProfileID=34674
time1   +1y
Kyle, thanks for the small writeup!

Thanks for the phone call to bro!
baggedwagon69   +1y
bro he's right in the front its all simple but in the back just do a custom frame from the rear doors back a lot better in the long run bro
phat phabrikationz   +1y
Originally posted by baggedwagon69



bro he's right in the front its all simple but in the back just do a custom frame from the rear doors back a lot better in the long run bro

Thats what I did with mine, cut the frame off at the rear doors and used 2x3 square tubing all the way back and used a reversed triangulated 4 link - 48" uppers and 41" lowers. 8" notch. I put the bags halfway on the 48" bars for alot of lift. Mine was bodydropped though so I didn't care for trunk space. Instead it was full of frame and link bars.
dante81_98   +1y
Thanks for all the help everyone. After seeing some picture of exactly what is needed to lay it out on 20s, I think I am going to wait a while to do this. I need to get my truck finished first. In the mean time I will be dropping it on the 20s and drive it like that for a while. The caprice will just have to wait for bags.

Thanks,
Chad
time1   +1y
Goin to pick up my caprice today after work!
TEEBAGGINNN   +1y
Looks like mine is not going to lay in the rear for a while.
When I bag it I'm not cutting any of the floor unless I can keep my third row seats.
Sikniss   +1y
kyle was on point regarding all of it.especially that FUCKIN' rear crossmember!!!

rippin away from the framerails... mine ripped then cracked in about 15 places and i'm tired of patching and plating it so i'm gonna make a new x-member out of box soon.The notch at 5" is fine for my 225/35/20's with a inch left over. extend the rear arms an inch ( mine are metco billet alum jobbers.. so they were adjustable) and it'll lay without the rear tires sitting on the front of the wheel well. I bridged it 5" over the top of the notch cut and 2600 compress fine when it lays (leave more if you use slam bags)

the front takes a 4" cup 3" high on top... and i plated the bottom flush with the top of the a-arm.. it lays without spindles but you have to tub or remove fenders. mine are tubbed to the fender fold metal and there's still an inch clearance with my 20s.

you're crazy if you dont drag that thing.. these frames are meant to be railed... miles and miles... you'll make trucks whimper. 1/4" plate the front of the rails (i used about 13" of cut leafspring steel) cuz its about even with your oil and trans pan.. it gives a good buffer between not making it home and getting there safely.

i'll post pics of the bridge in a bit...

here's a link to a vid of it dragging.watch about 30 seconds in. it's about a 1/2 mile in FF on the vid. VIDEO!!!
grip   +1y
I did it the easy way and threw away everything.Drive shaft,frame,control arms,spindles,floor,gas tank and fenderwells.Seems to me like its easy to start from scratch.You don't have to fight anything or worry about something being strong enough..
Sikniss   +1y
stock after cutting spring cup and clearancing for lay...

next up a closeup of where the stock crossmember is clearanced for the lower arms



next is how the notch came together (about 5" in all) and you can see the level where the bag mounts are...

a closeup of the upper bag mountand a overall bridge shot

any other Q's email me if ya like...