battery relocation question

im relocating my battery to the bed on the passengerside of the truck. instead of cutting my wiring harness and adding length to it, i was just going to run some battery posts up front and hook up my wiring harness like normal. my questin is though, when i mount the terminals, how do i keep the positive terminal from grounding out? put a gromet or something to keep it away from touching the body/frame? also, i know someone asked before but i dont think an answer was ever clear. could i use 4 ga. amp wire to make the pigtails run to the battery in the bed to the terminals at the front of the truck? its sheilded and its thicker than the stock wire used for the starter but im just not 100% sure if it would be alright.

no, no and no. i use o or 00 gauge welding cable when i relocate batteries. if your permenantly moving your battery, than do it correctly. look up summit.com or jegs.com for battery relocation kits, and you can see what they provide in a "kit" form

sweet, thank you. i want to do it the right way. actually i didnt even know they made a battery relocation kit. but i heard some one else using that wire, but that doesnt mean it was right.

You can run your hot lead straight back off the hot side of the starter. You may have other hot leads in the engine dept. that run straight to your battery. If so, run those also to the hot side of the starter. I have a battery switch that powers bat.1, bat.2, both bat. or all bateries off mounted next to my batteries in the bed. I have a ground block that is hidden under my enclosure in my bed. The ground from both batteries and amp leads run to this grounding block then 1 wire goes through the bed floor and is bolted to the frame rail. Hope this helps!

DOING THAT WOULDNT STEAL THE POWER FROM THE STARTER? I DONT THINK THE WIRE THAT CONNECTS THE POSITIVE TERMINAL ON THE BATTERY TO STARTER IS BIG ENOUGH GAUGE TO POWER EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. IM NOT SURE THOUGH. THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO THOUGH, IM GONNA KEEP THAT IN MIND CAUSE I WOULD LIKE TO DO A BLOW THROUGH WITH THREE KICKER 12 IN MY BED SO IM GONNA HAVE TO ADD ANOTHER BATTERY.

I ran 2 lines of 4ga stinger wire from the + side of my battery in the bed. One went straight to the starter, and the other went to a distribution block that was mounted to the radiator support. The main power wire that powers the fuse block is 8ga, that went into the dist. block. I havent had any problems with it.

Just make sure you ground your battery to the frame AND cab.

WHEN I PULLED THE MOTOR OUT, THERE WAS A GROUND TO THE BLOCK OF THE MOTOR AS WELL. ACTUALLY NOW THAT I THINK OF IT, THERE WAS ONLY A GROUND TO THE ENGINE BLOCK AND TO THE BODY. IS IT NECESSARY TO GROUND TO ALL THREE PLACES. WITH THE MOTOR MOUNTS I FIGURE THE CURRENT WONT MAKE IT TO THE FRAME. WHATS "STINGER WIRE"? LOL.

stinger wire is stereo shit, it works good and it was free at the time i did it so i couldnt pass it up. The welding cable will work fine and its cheaper.

Make sure you hookup all the grounds that are factory.

when I did mine a ran a 2 gauge wire to the starter, then a 8 gauge to a dist block on the firewall next to my fuse block. All my wire is stinger.

okay just to be sure... i was planning on running 4 ga. to everything because i have extra at my house. now, if i run one lead from the positive term. to the starter, i would need to put a fuse or breaker right? if i use a fuse what size? 50 amp? or what size breaker? the distribution block im not too sure what that is...is it the insulated piece that is used to run a straight lead from the positive terminal from the battery in the back to the front so i can hook up my wiring harness without modification? if not what is it? would i need to use a fuse between my battery and that insulated terminal? if so, what would be an adequate fuse/breaker? 50 amp? this is for a 22r toyota motor (198 if that helps. sorry for the long post but i dont like messing with electrical stuff unless i know for sure...the last thing i want is a electrical problem. thanks in advance.