machining the escalades to fit.

haha put up some pictures jim. haha ballin out of control man you are a nut.

do it right....get a caliper and measure the ID of the center bore on the mazda wheel....then get the eskies machined to the exact same as that....then put a bit of clear on the newly machined center bore and roll em....and just for the record the studs do not carry the weight, even if there is nothing in the bore, like stubs or a rings....the weight of the truck is carried by the friction of the wheel against the hub, brake or whatever being applied by the lugnuts....the studs do not actually bear weight, as long as they are tight...if they come loose they bear weight, but not if they are tight....but to make sure you get no shimmies or shakes just have the eskies bored out to the proper ID for your application.

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP.

its nice to see someone with some brains comment on here (aaron garvity5). mini truckers need to stop being so ghetto and cheap. to get your wheels machined would cost like 50 to 100 bux depending on where you live and what machine shops charge but its doesn't cost that much to do things right. im a machinist by trade but i hate seeing ghetto mini's. it makes mini truckin continue to have a bad name. JUS DO THINGS RIGHT, PLEASE STOP BEING GHETTO...

im confused on to how you get 6 lug wheels to fit a 5 lug bolt pattern
do you just need wheel adapters?
and if thats the case
wouldnt it make it harder to lay?
sorry im a dummy when it comes to wheels

Edited: 10/20/2006 5:11:51 AM by standardbyker88

Edited: 10/20/2006 5:10:49 AM by standardbyker88

most years of mazdas, isuzus, chevy luvs, mitsubishis and nissans/datsuns run the same pattern as the chevy 6 lugs. 6x5.5". not to be confused with the dodge dakota/durango 6 lug, which is 6x4.5". also, not all the chevy sized trucks have the same diameter lug studs. some are smaller than others and so forth. if you have smaller studs than the GM wheel you want to run, i would suggest to have your front hubs/hubbed rotors bored out to that size and press in new studs. same with the rear axle. example, i believe its the older luvs that have 12mm studs. Z71 wheels run a 14mm stud. so finding a lug that has enough collar to fit into the bore of the wheel and hold it might be a pain. plus, ive heard the Z71 caps snap onto the lugs so thats another issue. but yeah, all of this small machining isnt that much considering what billets cost. and under construction and/or low budget rides shouldnt have to have their stockers forever. run somebody elses stockers. hope this helped.

oh, and one of the recent issues of mini truckin listed what the stock bores of alot of minis are. and its easy to measure if you are still unsure. built, not bought. but build it right.

Originally posted by gravity5



and just for the record the studs do not carry the weight, even if there is nothing in the bore, like stubs or a rings....the weight of the truck is carried by the friction of the wheel against the hub, brake or whatever being applied by the lugnuts....the studs do not actually bear weight,

Great point, I was talking about how the WHEEL was designed not to have the weight, actually the twisting force or turning and cornering, on the lug mounting surface, not the stud. The wheel was designed to fit snug on a hub.

I saw one Z wheel with a crack in the center bore, the truck had ground hubs. I wasnt ever sure what would make that crack before, I always thought maybe he had just overtightened the lug nuts.

I went ahead and did it the right way and got my wheels machined by a buddy who did it for free HAHAHA it is nice knowing the right people...

they are at the machine shop now. if anyone else needs to know how much has to be removed its 600 thousandths. that is to get them to the exact size opening of the mazda wheels.

got my navis done for about 50 bucks in Amarillo, Texas.