best setup for hitting sides

Originally posted by 91 drggn dime



Originally posted by HOLCOMBE347



the regular rubber bushing will bind and not let you hit mad sides. You can still hit sides with them. You NEVER hit sides in life but maybe once, so setting a truck up to hit them, is gay.

im a show off so im sure ill hit sides more than once

What you really need to understand is that the truck will not hit a side harder then the most limited end can. In other words, if you only get 6" if total travel in the front then the rear won't really ever hit a side harder then that. So if you want to hit sides just about any standars 4-link bushing will work. The 3-link is a different story.

On a 4-link the bushings "share" the flexing, but on a 3-link the ONE bushing takes all of the load as well as the twisting. So if you choose to go the 3-link route, spend the extra money for the "super pivot" joints or Heims or Jonny Joints or...

I'm not sure if this would be enough "articulation" for you, it's about 22" difference from each other. (off-road trucks are obviously a little different situation then street trucks.)

Edited: 12/2/2006 9:33:10 PM by grim

By design a triangulated 4 link is supposed to stress under side flexes to hold a vehicle stable. In other words, by design they are not for hitting sides. In order for a side to side motion to take place one of the triangulated bars must stress at some point between its articulation pivot points. In my experience a properly setup fwd facing parallel 4-link and a correctly setup watts linkage is the best for about anything rwd. The bars may rotate a bit upon hitting sides but by design it wont try and bend the link bars or stress the mounts in a pushing motion. And the watts linkage will keep your rear end centered like a triangulated setup to avoid side shift issues or dog tracking. But that's just my experience, you'll find many build opinions; take your time, and good luck on your search.

(Also I roll a slip drive shaft on anything adjustable with a carrier barring, just to keep any tension out of em'.)

lol...ive got crazy side to side on mine...i have a reverse 4 link set up.. it was done by bryan marshall of the chop and drop shop

link setup, i perfer 3, with heim joints or some sort of super flex joint. Normally the front will limit you, for that you will need to get rid of them limiting ball joints and go with a off road style with custom control arms.

Originally posted by HOLCOMBE347



thats what the super pivots are for. they go on the end of the link bars, they allow the bars to 'twist' at the pivot. letting you hit side to side. if you dont put those pivots in or hyme joints in you'll twist and bend your fourlink. i beg to differ, alot of 4wd guys rock urethane bushings in their 4 links and they can get crazy side to side articulation. it will just kill the bushings before the bars because they are the weak link.

shit max i just noticed your post.

I've got the sd 5 link with super pivot joints and it hits sides and drives side ways like a dream. I've done 70mph+ side ways no problem, other than the truck pulling to the side a little. I've got a buddy in my club who had the some setup with out super pivots and his sides were horrible, worse than what i could get just front bagged. My 2cents, when you want to use them super pivot is deffinitly worth it.

Originally posted by grim



Edited: 12/2/2006 9:33:10 PM by grim

By design a triangulated 4 link is supposed to stress under side flexes to hold a vehicle stable. In other words, by design they are not for hitting sides.

I'm not sure what you are tring to say here, but parallel or triangulated will allow the same amount or articulation. The "twist" that the bars see is the same. The only difference is that with a watts-link the roll center is at the center of the link it self and with triagulated bars the roll center is at the instant center of the triangulated bars (simply speaking.)

If triangulated 4-links didn't work well for articulation then the off-road guys would be in a heap of trouble, because a giant watts-link isn't the most efficient means of limiting a long travel suspensions' lateral movement.

Go with the super pivital(although you dont need to, it'll save you time by not having to change your bushings over and over)but the trick is to remove your sway bar in the front. you'll have crazy body roll when driving so make sur you have good shocks at least in the rear. it will take care of most of the body roll but you still gotta sacrafice one ting to gain another. lift is also a major factor. make sure you got a lot of it, if not, hitting sides just doesn't look that cool. hope this helps