str8 bodywork/ str8 paint

I do body work in a pretty big shop, but there is a huge difference in the finished product from a typical paint job and a show quality paint job...Even when the bodywork is totally str8 the clearcoat almost appears uneven, looks like small ripples. What is the best way to make the clear flat? If a cut and buff is my answer, what grit paper should i start with? I was planning on clearing the truck then, wet blocking it with 400-600 then reclearing? Again, I'm not talking about a typical paint job, or graphics, I'M TALKIN SOLID COLOR- LIKE GLASS

Edited: 1/24/2007 8:36:41 PM by redcrew

Edited: 1/24/2007 8:35:49 PM by redcrew

I sanded mine with wet 600,1500,2000 then three stage buff. no reclear but Ive heard if you 400 then reclear it fatens it out alot but I dont think it can get any flater than what I have.

if you want it like glass, then knock it all down with some wet 1000, then step down to 1500, then 2000, and if its black or something Id even hand bomb over it with some 2500....then compound it, thats gonna be the sure fire way to make it shine. If you do body work in a big shop, just go talk to your painter, he'll have the answers for you.

-Brad

i'm not talkin about talkin about getting the peel out of it, more like what redcrew described (thanks)... any other methods?

Edited: 1/24/2007 8:51:37 PM by redcrew

alot of the riple look can start with the primer do a final wet block with 400 or 600 before painting.

Edited: 1/24/2007 9:16:51 PM by WeightLimit

I use 1000g to get the dirt out then finish off with 2000g to flatten it out. Then the normal buffing after that.

I dont like to sand a lot with the 1000 because it takes forever to get the sand scratches out with 2000.

A lot of the orange peel is caused by how dry you spray the sealer,base, and the clear. Most of it anyhow.

If you want to make sure its prefect, paint, then sand 600 till its flat, then re-clear.

Then sand 1200 on a paint stick till its flat (squeegie the water off it and look for imperfections), then 150, then 2000, then buff. You can skip the extra clear if you want and will still get a very nice result, just not quite as nice.

Edited: 1/24/2007 9:30:06 PM by bagged85

quit using a d/a for final sand. also i would look into make sure non of the primers/sealers/fillers are shrinking to much.

Ok this is how to do it right.First do not skip steps like everyone else is doing in here.Use a long board so sand with then start with 600then do all these steps 800,1000,1200,1500,2000 then 3000.

This is how we do it at our custom restoration shop.Go to your paint dealer and get a dura block set and use those.that will get out all your urithane wave.

I LOVE USING THE DA! 3M SOFT PAD WORKS GREAT IN MY SHOP! 400G IS A BIT MUCH IF YOU WANT TO GO THREW WITH ALL THAT SAND PAPER AND BUFFING.I LIKE USING THE DA WITH 1000G TO GET IT FLAT FIRST THEN HIT IT WITH 12 OR 1500G AND THEN WET SAND IT WITH 2000.THE DA DOSENT LEAVE THE EDGE MARKS FROM THE SOFT BLOCK YOU WOULD NORMALLY USE DURING WET SANDING.THERE REALLY IS A DIFFERNCE BETWEEN THE BLOCK AND THE DA FOR KNOCKING THE CLEAR DOWN AND GETTING THE JOB DONE WITH LESS WORK AND STILL HAVE A GREAT SHINE! TRY IT OUT