str8 bodywork/ str8 paint

DA = not as flat as a block thats a no=no IMO and for the super slick look it sounds like ur wanting it needs to be cut with 600 and recleared dont go any heavier than 600 though. Once its recleared sand it with 1500/2000 then compound it, machine glaze, hand glaze then hand wax it.
Oh and im not saying the DA wont work and do a good job but it wont do the same job plus this guy sounds like he's just gettin goin and i wouldnt suggest a DA on fresh clear to a beginner.

I did mine with 1000,1500,2000, 3000 with a soft block.....slick as glass....won best paint 3 times last year......I agree with Keef!!!! I wouldnt DA it...block it......

Just always use all the steps. After paint and first clear, wetsand with 600. Apply your second clear and then wetsand from 600 all the way up to 2000 (600,1000,1500, then 2000). After all that use a machine buff. Always use a block if you want that show finish!

the ripples are more then likley in whats under the paint from were u prepped the car b4, alot of people like to cheat and use a da w/ 320. if the car was a big flat square box that would be fine, but ever car is curved. ever time you stop that da and move the other diretion, it creates a lil indetion. also when we buff, we use the 3m trizzact 1500 and 3000 grit velcro sandpaper. the pad is twice as thick and soft as a normal da pad...

The best jobs are those where a DA never touches the car once its stripped,primed with epoxy, and bodyworked w/block. Very nice red chevy ive seen ur truck def slick bro....

thanks keef!! Lance Thibodeaux did it...(the guy who bought your smoothies)....you and him do some of the best work out there.......

Oh yeah Lance told me yall was boys has he done anything to the caddy bro??? Thanks for the props

Originally posted by KEEF



DA = not as flat as a block thats a no=no IMO and for the super slick look it sounds like ur wanting it needs to be cut with 600 and recleared dont go any heavier than 600 though. Once its recleared sand it with 1500/2000 then compound it, machine glaze, hand glaze then hand wax it. Oh and im not saying the DA wont work and do a good job but it wont do the same job plus this guy sounds like he's just gettin goin and i wouldnt suggest a DA on fresh clear to a beginner.

Wow I agree with you Keith Da I only use a da for featherin and blend panels on collision work. you wont that show stoppin glass you got to do some steps first off 400 hundred is a little harsh I like 800 for reclearin. put three nice slick coats with proper flash time over your solid color. let it set for about 7 days with a lot of air flowin over it then take your soft block I prefer the durablocks but diffrent strokes diffrent folks block it nice and flat with that 800. remask that hoe lay three more coats on it. let sit for a couple weeks cut it I like to go 800 1000 1200 1500 2000, use a good system like 3m or wizards and follow all the steps go nice and slow and you should be the bell of the ball.....

i may as well throw my two cents in on this one...in MY opinion...sanding your clear down flat with 600 and then reclearing always comes out alot nicer than layin on a bunch of clearcoats and then cutting it flat and buffing it back....as far as how i cut and buff..i really dont see the need to start with 600 or even as gritty as 800...unless you've really got alot of orange peel to knock down..you really shouldnt need to use any courser than 1500..then 3000...and 3m's new extra cut compound is the SHIT..it removes deep scratches really fast..and has basically NO grittyness to it like the old extra cut did..alot of times u dont even need to go over it with a regular compound or glaze...and as far as never using a DA..im gonna have to somewhat disagree with that...blocking is great and is necessary for a nice job...BUT...unless you have a TON of experience doing it..its not that hard to actually block lines into your surface...a quick/light buzz with the DA will usually take care of any of that before paint...but then again..not knowing how to use a DA can also put imperfections in whatever your painting..so i guess it goes either way...okay i wrote a book im done now lol...in the end it really just comes down to whatever works the best for you...practice and try things out and when you find something that gives you good results..go with it!

Would some of you pst up your polishing steps. What type of compounds and polishes you use with which pads.