Urgent...need info about a b2600 tonight...

To make a long story short, my bro in law wrecked my truck about 5 months ago. I have been looking for b2200 cab plus since then..and finally found a 1991 b2600 2wd.

From what i know this is basically a b2200 with a FI engine instead of carb'd...correct?

Is there ANY reason i would want a b2200 over this b2600? Is there any problems when it comes to lowering, juice, body droping? Is the frame the same as the b2200?

Sorry for all the questions, but im driving 130 miles tomorrow to go look at/buy this truck unless i get some reasons from you guys not to? I mainly want to know how the b2600 engine is? and what differences between frames if any?

Thanks again, Dee

russ d would be the one to confirm this..but from what i remember from other mazda posts..the b2600i head was prone to cracking...and the only way to fix it is with a new head(or some sort of new part) from the dealer..which was like a 800-1000 dollar fix...OR the other option was to get a used head..which was just a head that hadnt cracked yet..because i think they ALL crack sooner or later...other than that i dont think there are any problems you would run into....

If its true about the head cracking, am i right to assume that when/if this does happen i could bolt the head/carbs from my b2200 on there?

everything is basically the same. you will see no difference in frame or lowering.

the 2.6 (2600) is totally different then the 2.0 or 2.2 (2000, 2200) engines. nothing on the engine/trans are swappable. the 2.6 is fuel injected, and makes TONS more power than the popoy 2.0 or 2.2 motors, but if you drive them crazy hard the trannys break. it sucks. alot. if you take a 2.0 rear end and put it behind the 2.6 its a cheap and free gear swap, and makes the 2.6 mazda truck scream like crazy. (yeah i know, that sounds wierd) get it for the power. other than that the 2.6 trucks are the same chassis as the other b series. motor mounts/trans mounts are different, also wiring harness. ive owned 3 2.6, and umm quite a few 2.0 and 2.2's..

Originally posted by BK2LIFE



if you take a 2.0 rear end and put it behind the 2.6 its a cheap and free gear swap, and makes the 2.6 mazda truck scream like crazy.

Your saying this as a Good thing correct? Would a 2.2 rear end make it scream just the same?(since i have a spare one in my driveway if i ever need it)

anyone know if its a 2 piece drive shaft? and is there any benefits from a 1 peice or 2 piece?

thanks again for all the help everyone..Dee

a 1 piece shaft pivots off your tranny. you would probably have to tunnel your floor if you go really low. a 2 piece pivots further back, causing less problems with your cab.

yeah trevor nailed it, if it still has the original head do NOT let that engine get even a little hot or it will crack. It is a well documented flaw and the only repair is a 900 dollar bare head from the dealer, they redesigned the head but did not issue a recall.

James is right, nothing mechanical interchanges, the 2.6 mazda is different from the 2.6 used 87-88 and all B2000/B2200.

The B2600i computers have problems, the capacitors on the board swell and break. Which can preclude a hot run and a head crack.

I have owned three, bought two cracked and one cracked while I owned it. They ALL crack, if it has the original head it just hasnt cracked yet. If it has been replaced with salvage yard parts it just hasnt cracked yet. The ONLY fix is the dealer head, the reconditioned heads sold by rebuilders are salvage cores.

Otherwise they are quicker and start easier. The bubble hood is nice too, and the B2600i was the top of the line truck so it has nice amenities.

2600i's suck ass, if you are planning a different motor, then buy the truck, otherwise, don't rely on the 2600i, heads crack if the truck gets hot ever, and ecm's have faulty capitors which leak and ruin the ecm.

Man this sucks, I finally found a sweet truck in excellent condition for only $1600 and i dont know if i should buy it. lol

Its a second owner truck, and this older guy has had it for the last 12 years. So as long as the head was changed with a dealer head then i should grab this truck?...otherwise expect a cracked head sometime? Is there any way to visualy tell if the head is a new good head?