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Mazda Trucks \  Urgent...need info about a b2600 tonight...

Urgent...need info about a b2600 tonight...

Mazda Trucks Make Specific
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following 9
 
scrager   +1y
buy it and if the head cracks then drop in a small block
layed521   +1y
I couldn't be happier with my B2600i. Aside from the ECU problem that has already been mentioned, its been a great truck so far. Its been driven more in the last few months than it had been in at least a year too according to the old man that I bought it from (original owner too). I say go look at it, drive it, for a good 20 miles or so, then decide.
dssur   +1y
Originally posted by LudeKustoms



Man this sucks, I finally found a sweet truck in excellent condition for only $1600 and i dont know if i should buy it. lol

Its a second owner truck, and this older guy has had it for the last 12 years. So as long as the head was changed with a dealer head then i should grab this truck?...otherwise expect a cracked head sometime? Is there any way to visualy tell if the head is a new good head?

well the trick is not to let them run hot. If you see the gauge climb toward 3/4 at ALL, shut it off. Thermostats go bad and radiators get plugged all the time. Even worse if a heater hose busts the gauge will go down, not up. So you dont even know you are ruining your motor.

I know people with high milage trucks and no problems. They have really nicely maintained trucks, so use that as a guide. If it is super duper clean, chances are they kept up on stuff.

Someone told me the other day thier B2600i head cracked and they used a liquid coolant system repair and it worked, I almost fell over.
madlowmazda   +1y
yeah Russ-

I have been hearing about some new products for head gaskets and cracked heads that you pour into the cooling system, and it's a long process of treatment- running the car- flushing several times- but it ends up working, and these places have a 100% fix gaurantee. A friend of mine did it to his deisel ford truck that lifted a headgasket while he was towing a load- broke down on the side of the road- and he fixed it right there with that shit- and drove it home!

I still prefer fe engines though- there is no performance upgrades/ interchangability for the b2600 engines.
powang   +1y
Edited: 1/30/2007 9:54:27 PM by LudeKustoms

So i guess one last question. I would like to one day put a rx-7 engine in the truck. (like everyone else) I heard that engine will bolt up to the b2200 tranny, i dont know if this is true or not? If so, would it bolt up to the b2600 tranny? Also if the driveshaft is a one peice, will my 2 peice from my b2200 bolt right up to swap it?

Is the price of $900 dollars for the new head from the dealer including labor? or just the part?

Thanks again for all your help.
dssur   +1y
900 is just the part. a bare head, you will still need to have it machines and assembled.

the RX7 will only bolt up to the RX7 tranny. the slave cylinder is on the opposite side so you can just move the truck slave and reuse it. The clutch is also the same (depending on the year of your RX) and it is simple to make mounts for the RX motor. But keep in mind the carbed 12a only had about 100hp and less torque, so what you think will be preformance will actually be you revving the shit out of it to get going. The later 13b motor is 130hp with EFI, and the 89-90-91 13b is about 160.

I have a 90 13b with a blown coolant seal, anyone who wants it to use for mock up or whatever is welcome to pick it up for free in KS.
dssur   +1y
and the 1 piece driveshaft was oonly on the std cab, if its ext cab it will already be 2 piece
powang   +1y
Originally posted by Russ-D



900 is just the part. a bare head, you will still need to have it machines and assembled.

the RX7 will only bolt up to the RX7 tranny. the slave cylinder is on the opposite side so you can just move the truck slave and reuse it. The clutch is also the same (depending on the year of your RX) and it is simple to make mounts for the RX motor. But keep in mind the carbed 12a only had about 100hp and less torque, so what you think will be preformance will actually be you revving the shit out of it to get going. The later 13b motor is 130hp with EFI, and the 89-90-91 13b is about 160.

I have a 90 13b with a blown coolant seal, anyone who wants it to use for mock up or whatever is welcome to pick it up for free in KS.

Russ Thanks for all the time and help you have given me. hehe, 1 last question for you. (make that 2) the problem with the b2600 computer, is the fix for that buying a new computer? if so how much does that run?

And your response about the rx7 motor, Are you saying it isnt worth it to do the swap? or I just need to use a 13b motor to make it worth wild? (i havent really did any research on it yet) is there a better swap out there?

Thanks again.Dee
dssur   +1y
yeah use the 13b. Years ago I had a mild 12a with dual sidedrafts and it was ok, nothing amazing. If you havent ever driven a rotary though, or you dont know how they work, you should probably stick to like an FE3 swap. It will bolt to a B2200 trans and motor mounts and is 140 hp stock.

The computer problem is caused by leaky caps on the circuit board. Sometimes you can solder new caps in and clean up the board and its fixed, other times you need a whole computer.
powang   +1y
Well, I decided im going to go look at/buy it today as long as it runs good, and its as clean as it looks in the pictures. If it comes down to it, and the head cracks i can always pull everything out of my b2200 and swap it in this one.

one thing that bugs me, is the way the inside door panel goes up and over to the window. Unlike my b2200 that had about a 2 inch gap between the window and the door panel. But im guessing I can just swap door panels correct? Or is the inside of the door different?

Is $1600 a good price for a clean truck? Minus a rust hole in the wheel well of the bed? 205k miles..New fuel tank/pump, exhaust?

Thanks again...