Removing Stickers and Trim

^^^^ yeah, i'm guessing it is stock paint. I have used the eraser wheel on 2 trucks and it has done nothing to paint but it does kinda dull up the clear coat. But as far as scrathing up paint, it hasn't happened to me yet and that is digging into the glue with the wheel also.

try not to use the eraser wheel, it's a load of work. heat gun and glue remover. if you can find a sign supply place in your city there's a product called "rapid remover" it's the shit. if not lighter fluid is good or goo gone.

Originally posted by grands



try not to use the eraser wheel, it's a load of work. heat gun and glue remover. if you can find a sign supply place in your city there's a product called "rapid remover" it's the shit. if not lighter fluid is good or goo gone.

i work at and own a sign shop and deal with that shit on a daily basis, Kyle hit the nail on the head with the heat gun and eraser wheel, and mark metioning the RAPID REMOVER is a huge plus also. Most Home Depots carry that product, if not ask a local sign shop where they get thiers from and if you use it, you can use plastic razor blades to help remove the old glue. Paint supply stores also sell a 3M adhesiv remover

its a mazda factory stripe. Eraser wheels will be a colossal waste of disposable income, so will anything else including letting them sit in the sun or a heat gun. They will not peel, they will chip and scratch off, to the detriment of the paint below them. Your easiest solution is to use a DA with some 80 grit and just prime it when you are done.

I have never had one come off easy, and I have used all the old home remedies including WD40, Wasp spray, goo gone, eraser wheels, putty knives and heat, and even a freaking WIDGET RAZOR TOOL which worked great for getting to bare metal.

3m stripe off wheel, u can get them at napa...

I agree with russ, use a DA and then prime it, those pesky factory stickers will take days to remove (literally).

Hey Chris. I also work with this stuff on a daily basis. I have to disagree with some of these guys, especially the piano wire. Heatgun or hairdryer on the moulding just makes a big mess. The trick is to have the metal and paint hot/warm and the double sided sticky tape and the moulding cool/er. If it doesnt pull off all at once which it may not because of age, try "Denatured Alcohol". Mist it on to the area on and above the sticky tape and let it soak under it. Then start picking with your fingernail. If thet doesnt work, let the DNA dry and use the Rubber Eraser Wheel. Go slow and be prepared to polish the entire area afterwards. Do not use "Acitone". Good luck.

Gasoline works well. Use a heat gun and peel slow then use Gasoline and a rag it'll come right off.

Originally posted by Russ-D



its a mazda factory stripe. Eraser wheels will be a colossal waste of disposable income, so will anything else including letting them sit in the sun or a heat gun. They will not peel, they will chip and scratch off, to the detriment of the paint below them. Your easiest solution is to use a DA with some 80 grit and just prime it when you are done.

I have never had one come off easy, and I have used all the old home remedies including WD40, Wasp spray, goo gone, eraser wheels, putty knives and heat, and even a freaking WIDGET RAZOR TOOL which worked great for getting to bare metal.

I took all my stripes off a fully striped SE-5 LONGBED with a 3M stripe off wheel in 2 hours, it's WAY easy!

Maybe you had the wrong wheel or something, but mine worked like a fucking charm it was awesome

Didn't burn the paint or anything

And go against the stripe, that way it doesn't spit the shit on your clean slate