bare metal?

Originally posted by draggin97



the best way in a corrosion protection sense would be to lay down an epoxy primer first then do your mudwork then shoot urethane primer on top of that. Just do not lay down your regular primer first unless it is ment to stick to bare metal. The old school way to do it would be to start out with an etching primer then go to your urethane primer next. hope this helps and does not confuse you.

Draggin97 is absolutely right on this. From a "corrosion resistant" standpoint. Try to shape your metal as best as possible first to minimize the amount of filler required. You can spray epoxy primer over bare metal. It does have etching capabilities. It is also one of the primers that has a unique characteristic which allows you to apply body fillers directly on top of as long as you scuff sand the area first. I also like to let my epoxy cure prior to adding any filler. And once your body repair is complete, a urethane based primer such as 2K is a very excellent primer to use on top. Make sure you scuff all unsanded primer prior to spraying your urethane based or which ever primer you decide to finish the repair panel with. I teach auto body at my local community college. I would not steer you wrong. As a matter of fact, I do all bare metal repairs this way. However, you can put body filler directly over bare metal, use an etching primer over top, and then use a urethane based primer over that. This is not a wrong or imperfect method. But as stated before, from a "corrosion resistant standpoint, the first method is the recommended method. Hope this helps some.

Late

Originally posted by Idragit



ok then...so what your sayin is it is always ok to do as I say..and it is sometimes ok to do as you say when your using a particular product, but you can still do it my way....so who's advice would be better for the guy whoi asked this question who is apparently new to body work?

dont take what i said wrong. but the way you put it in your first post is that you cant put bondo on anything but bare metal. but he needs to figure out what brand of stuff he wants to use and then go by what they recomend instead of basics from ASE. On all of my custom stuff it goes to bare metal and then in to DP within 12 hours to protect it. and then all my body work goes on top of that.