BioMax
+1y
I'm still not exactly sure what you are asking though. Is it about the pinion angle, the bar angle or the upper bag mount angle?
You really need to start over. I give you an 'A' for effort, but it's not going to get very far down the road before any number of things will break.
I HATE, let me say that one more time- HATE! telling people that, but it IS going to break. Take a look around on here and figure out how it should all go together. Draw out your ideas on the ground or some poster board and post your ideas up here if want some help before you get started. Save yourself some heartache and possibly danger. It takes a little more time to do it right the first time, but it saves so much more time in the long run.
You really need to start over. I give you an 'A' for effort, but it's not going to get very far down the road before any number of things will break.
I HATE, let me say that one more time- HATE! telling people that, but it IS going to break. Take a look around on here and figure out how it should all go together. Draw out your ideas on the ground or some poster board and post your ideas up here if want some help before you get started. Save yourself some heartache and possibly danger. It takes a little more time to do it right the first time, but it saves so much more time in the long run.
TwistedMinis
+1y
Originally posted by BioMax
I'm still not exactly sure what you are asking though. Is it about the pinion angle, the bar angle or the upper bag mount angle?
I think what he is asking is that when laid out, the 4-link bar that the bag mounts to is at an angle, and wants to know what angle the bag mount should be in correlation with that bar.
What I do, is use a piece of 3x3 square tube to mock up the bag. I have one piece that is drilled and tapped to the bolt pattern of a 2500lb bag that I bolt in before welding the mounts in place.
I'm still not exactly sure what you are asking though. Is it about the pinion angle, the bar angle or the upper bag mount angle?
I think what he is asking is that when laid out, the 4-link bar that the bag mounts to is at an angle, and wants to know what angle the bag mount should be in correlation with that bar.
What I do, is use a piece of 3x3 square tube to mock up the bag. I have one piece that is drilled and tapped to the bolt pattern of a 2500lb bag that I bolt in before welding the mounts in place.
shavenotbagged
+1y
I looked at my buddys ranger that i helped him with and the way we set his bars up is like this we jacked up the rear end so its layed out than put the bars level and mounted the bag collasped , It worked for him adn hes been riding liek that for a while now, only thing i have to read up about is the pinion angle were it needs to be, Anyone have comments bout that casue they will help , and this time im goin to take my time make sure my welder is set and everyhting
lx4life
+1y
also make sure you have a level handy cause not to be a dick but some of those bars are not that straight, the heights and angle on the inner lower bars look off and the welds look very very weak. The truck is not driving is it?
creative concepts
+1y
Edited: 9/7/2007 6:40:57 PM by potter
here is a pic of mine.. notice since the bar is angled when laid out i angled my upper plate too so the bag isnt in an arc when laid.. its straight altho both end caps are angled, the bag itself is straight.
p.s. i know the bag isnt deflated, its setup for 20's and ihave 17's.
here is a pic of mine.. notice since the bar is angled when laid out i angled my upper plate too so the bag isnt in an arc when laid.. its straight altho both end caps are angled, the bag itself is straight.
p.s. i know the bag isnt deflated, its setup for 20's and ihave 17's.
MagicMikey
+1y
i know i am not max but i like to help too lol
honestly i would place the bags on mounts on the out side of the frame on a ranger. i did one a few years back and it worked out great for what he wanted. plus the wider ur mount ur bags on the axle the more stable it is. most people dont care about that but i drive the hell out of my stuff. in my opinon dont over kill the space on crossmembers and notches the less extra room the stronger it can be. ensted of several inces use jsut a few like 1 or 2 for the drive shaft and notch. also use a good thickness for what every it is your workin on. i always build my stuff on a flat surface and use squares and measure alot to make things striaght. here is what i did just to give ya some ideas if you want.
honestly i would place the bags on mounts on the out side of the frame on a ranger. i did one a few years back and it worked out great for what he wanted. plus the wider ur mount ur bags on the axle the more stable it is. most people dont care about that but i drive the hell out of my stuff. in my opinon dont over kill the space on crossmembers and notches the less extra room the stronger it can be. ensted of several inces use jsut a few like 1 or 2 for the drive shaft and notch. also use a good thickness for what every it is your workin on. i always build my stuff on a flat surface and use squares and measure alot to make things striaght. here is what i did just to give ya some ideas if you want.
BioMax
+1y
Good points guys! When building a suspension, one of the first things that you need to do is put the whole truck on jackstands and level it out. You should be able to put a tape measure on all four corners of the cab, to the ground and come up with the same measurement. From here you can take consistent measurements.
When I build a rear suspension it gets all figured out on the ground first so I know where all of the mounts go without having to colapse the suspension, but the way that has been described here will work just fine.
I agree with MagicMikey about running the bags on the outside of the frame, it really does add a lot of stability.
killswitchmsi-As for pinion angles... There have been so many threads started on this subject in the past. A good place to start would be to read the 4-link article "sticky" in the suspension forum, there are a lot of your questions answered in there.
Here are a couple pics of a simple system that we just finished. The side view is deceiving, it looks like the instant center is facing rearward, but the upper bars are bent so it just looks that way. Also, I have posted in the past that wishbone style links don't work so well on minis because of the space issues with the driveshaft and the upper link, but this truck has a split driveshaft that allows me to use the system effectively.
When I build a rear suspension it gets all figured out on the ground first so I know where all of the mounts go without having to colapse the suspension, but the way that has been described here will work just fine.
I agree with MagicMikey about running the bags on the outside of the frame, it really does add a lot of stability.
killswitchmsi-As for pinion angles... There have been so many threads started on this subject in the past. A good place to start would be to read the 4-link article "sticky" in the suspension forum, there are a lot of your questions answered in there.
Here are a couple pics of a simple system that we just finished. The side view is deceiving, it looks like the instant center is facing rearward, but the upper bars are bent so it just looks that way. Also, I have posted in the past that wishbone style links don't work so well on minis because of the space issues with the driveshaft and the upper link, but this truck has a split driveshaft that allows me to use the system effectively.