WELDING TECHNIQUES

Drinking some milk after I weld makes me feel better.

thats great.

Pretty much all the mig and tig have been covered. Everybody keeps asking about stick welding and there are never any answers for them. It is nice to deversify ever once in a while. Imo stick is the hardest, reason being is that it is used allot of times, in the worst of the worst locations in the tightest spots under some rust bucket of a machine. That is when the skill comes out. All these mig welds and tig welds are basically practice and consistency, but when you stick weld in some of those bad spots laying upside down or however you are. it gets tuff to make things look good. My advice to start out with like everybody has said. You want to make sure your metal is clean. well if you are welding a nice new chunk of steel to some old rusted jagged piece of metal that really doesn't apply. what i would recommend is to start farther down on the old piece of metal and drag the stick down it making a straight puddle of less contaminated metal then build from there. The whole 7018 uphill question I would recommend to turn your heat down. I would say it is much stronger to get a good tied in weld, then to try and get penetration with the heat up. Usually if you are doing test you will run a 6010 as a root pass. No matter how many vertical or overheads i have ran every weld is different. Sure you can relate them in some way but they all have there differences. 

  This is my first attempt at stitch welding with my Miller 175. The stock is 1/8th. What do you think?

--------------------------------------------- Originally posted by KAOSS   This is my first attempt at stitch welding with my Miller 175. The stock is 1/8th. What do you think? --------------------------------------------- Those are nice.  Stitching should only be used on non load bearing welds.  Like sheet metal and what not.  Am I wrong?

^^^ It doesn't penetrate as well as a continuous bead. You do turn up the heat though to compensated for that.

Edited: 2/13/2009 3:19:14 PM by project94

I used the stitch weld technique on my stock floor body drop and subframe 3 years ago, no problems at all, stitch welding works great for me I turn up the heat of course.  Badass lookin welds henry young

Awesome thread...just wanted to add that.  It's stuff like this that will help us beginners to put safer rides on the roads!!

hey will a hobart 140 be sufficient for frame welding. i wanna back half my yota but i am not sure if 140 will work. what do u guys think?

Edited: 4/27/2009 7:28:07 PM by project94

I wouldn't, the spec sheet on the hobart website was kinda blurry but didn't look like it would even weld 3/16.  I would try and get a 220 at least, i love my miller 185