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Toyota Trucks \  Zing frame

Zing frame

Toyota Trucks Make Specific
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granth   +1y
sorry for all the threads but ave a few questions that need answers somewhat quick. I believe I was told a 1 inch Z would be fine and lay me out flat when bagged. Now, do I need a new tranny member when I get the Z done, or is that something that can wait? I know the motor raises....so.
junior   +1y
yea u gonna need the new tranny crossmember seth is sellin them for like 150 i think
waynehammer   +1y
THE ONLY REASON YOU NEED A NEW CROSSMEMBER IS BECAUSE IT HANGS DOWN LOWER THAN THE FRAME. DOESNT MATTER TOO MUCH THAT UR ENGINE GOES UP. YOU CAN FIX THAT WITH SOME NEW MOTOR MOUNTS.. SETH SELLS EVERYTHING FOR YOTAS. HAHA.. DAMN I JUST NOTICE WE ALL MAKE HIM MONEY... FREE ADVERTISING..
granth   +1y
i was asking because i may be having work done. i knew you could get the mounts and tranny member, just didnt know if they were needed right away. guess that answered my question though lol. thanks guys.

yall dont have pics of the frame Z and how you guys did it do you? im contemplating doing it myself, but dont know if i want to. I don't want to pull the motor at all.
granth   +1y
Edited: 3/3/2008 6:14:23 PM by 72bumpside

I just got the idea of how to do it, maybe.

What if I undid the motor from the mounts, all vaccuum, wiring, fuel lines, and all that still attached. raised the motor JUST enough so that I could raise the frame for the Z, plate it all up, set the motor back down and be done. Would any of the hard lines and crap need to be re-run or are they far enough of of the way?

of course I would blow out fuel lines and crap lol. and would probably need to remove a bit of them as they are more than likely in the frame rail at that point. I havent looked at all yet.
TwistedMinis   +1y
Edited: 3/3/2008 6:25:25 PM by TwistedMinis

Just make sure you pull them all away from the frame, or off completely. Some of the fuel and brake lines are attached to the inside of the frame right where you will be cutting.

And a 1" Z will let you lay flat, but you have to cut about 3/8" to 1/2" off the bottom of the engine cross member. Its not that hard.

Also, you could leave the motor in when you Z it. You don't have to unbolt it. You could also put the drop motor mounts in first, in case you are worried about it hitting the transmission tunnel (I can't remember how much room there is stock).

As for the transmember, yes I do make one, but it isn't entirely necessary. I have seen people cut the bottom off and plate it. The only thing I don't like is it doesn't give you much room for exhaust. Mine leaves enough room to run a 2.5" exhaust system if you wanted to. Its up to you.

My transmember and engine mounts will all come TIG welded from now on. I'm working on control arms now too.
vincer   +1y
need pics
granth   +1y
Edited: 3/3/2008 6:32:15 PM by 72bumpside

seth, please PM me with currency values im wondering.

also seth, you say you can do it with the motor in, any chance you could elaborate? I was thinkin an engine hoist would hold the frame up better, and I could line it up with the hoist holding the motor still.

draw a line on the frame on either side, and then one 1 inch up from there, once cut I could just lift the hoist 1 inch, line it up on both sides and tack it, double check, triple and quadruple check and weld it up fully and then plate it with a fish plate. am i thinkin on the right track?
TwistedMinis   +1y
I was thinking about doing it on the ground. I don't have any pictures, but I know Tim (Time1) has some good pictures from when he did his. Miles (ShortRodeo) also has some good pictures of Z'ing either his truck or maybe it was Johnny's truck before it got a tube frame. I would post pictures if I had them.
granth   +1y
on the ground is possible if the notch is done. i could just unhook the leaves and crap. but either way will work i think.