Zing frame

Edited: 3/3/2008 6:50:04 PM by TwistedMinis

Well it would be hard to Z it and leave it sprung if thats what you where thinking. I'm not sure the torsions would line up anymore.

I always pictured doing it on the ground. However my garage is very wavy so I would probably build some kind of fixture to sit below the frame while I cut and aligned it all.

Also I PM'd you.

I was thinkin that if the front is bagged already, then I could just take the bags out, that way the arms are unsprung i guess you would say. once cut, then it would just be a matter of lining it all up. on the ground or not.

i think buildin a frame table and doin it on that would be the best way....

surely it would....but i can have it done for me cheaper than throwing a lot of time/effort into a frame table. i think if the lines i drew were done correctly, theres no reason it wouldnt line up perfectly. given straight cuts of course.

OK

When i did my Z i did it on my garage floor, no marks, no lines, nothin! LoL My motor was out (for rebuild) so it made it easier to weld the plates on the inside of the frame. You should still be able to weld the plates with the motor in the truck. Here are some pics of how we did it.

Get some 1x1 and cut some pieces long enough to weld to the frame and touch the ground. you do this so the front clip of the frame doesnt move front to back once its completely cut.



Once thats done at all 4 corners of it then start cuttin them. The 1x1 also acts as a guide for the sawzal to cut a straight line.



Make sure you support the rest of the truck BEFORE you cut so it doesnt drop on ya once the front clip is free from the rest of it. We used scissor jacks (its a bitch i know but it worked hella good.LoL)

Once its all cut now you can lower the rest of the truck down so the front part after the Z hits the ground.



Once its dropped start welding it up and weld some plates on the outside of the frame rails.

If the motor is still in it i would lower it first because there isnt much room at the tunnel for it to go up when the rest of the truck is lowered down. If you plan on doin a bodydrop to it also it would be the best time to do it once the Z is done that way you dont have to do the front part of the frame twice.

If your unclear about any of this shoot me a PM (dont have a lot of posts im a bronze member LoL)

Hope this helps!!

Someone make this a sticky, its like the 4th time ive posted these pics! HAHA

YOU WANT IT A STICKY ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS ASK ..... anyway Lucky asked & it has been made a sticky

Iam chasing images of the radius arm mounts fitment after the framed has been Z'd (89-95) Toy

Thanks in advance

u can go 1 1/2" befor you hit tran tunnel

This is kinda of a stupid question, but what is the purpose of a z frame?

that picture walkthrough is great, I will add though that if you plan to leave the motor in you should plan on taking the exhaust manifold off, or your sawzall blade will keep banging into it.

the purpose of zing the frame is to make the rails under the cab the lowest part of the frame, as it is without a z the engine crossmember is the lowest part and the truck will not lay flat frame, the front whill be higher than the back when laid out. Some guys like it but I think it looks super ghetto.

Also, if you z the frame and then bodydrop the truck you will only need a 2.25 bodydrop to lay rocker instead of not zing and needing a 3.75 inch bodydrop. Doesnt sound like a lot, that inch and a half, but if you own a toyota you know every single little inch counts when doing a traditional bodydrop.

good writeup, thats exactly how Ryans is done.