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Ask A Pro \  Setting up the rear

Setting up the rear

Ask A Pro Q & A
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TwistedMinis   +1y
Edited: 4/2/2008 11:56:13 PM by TwistedMinis

^ Steve is an awesome guy. He doesn't try to sell you just anything, he asks all kinds of questions to get you the best part possible.
GMracer   +1y
cool I will give them a call for sure, what do those shocks typically run price wise? The ones I was going to run were 650 for the pair ART DA (qa1s)

I think I found a nice setup idea, I will be posting pictures hopefully this weekend of some progress.

Now for the upper triangulated bars, the bushings, it doesn't matter if they're square with the bar or square with the axle right (where the bar gets cut on an angle to attach to the bushing)

I'm glad I posted up, sounds like I would have ended up with shockwaves and no been completely happy with them.
TwistedMinis   +1y
^ I'm pretty sure Steve said the average shock retailed around $90 each to the average consumer.
GMracer   +1y
damn, that's a lot cheaper than I planned on pay, haha.

what about those bushings?
BioMax   +1y
To be fair, the shocks that Seth is talking about are not a rebuilable type shock, but you should still only be paying around $200 for a serviceable, coilover capable shock.

As for bushings, as long as you aren't running too much travel (less than 12") either way will work fine.
GMracer   +1y
less then 12" for sure. So from a couple drawings I've been working on looks like my lowers will be 28-30" or so then the uppers I'm thinking making them longer to match with the same length on the bottom but the angle making them "shorter" (if that makes sense and run a re-7 (or behind the axle with the bilestein shocks. This setup should be far more superior than running a qa1 double adjustable and sleeve style bag, or even the 9000 series shockwave.

Reason behind the re8 was for added comfort in ride out back, I've read and heard that the bigger bad should give a better ride.
BioMax   +1y
A bigger bag does offer a lower spring-rate as well as less of a rising spring-rate (an unavoidable trait of airbags) but you don't want to run a double convoluted bag directly on top of the axle for comfort or performance. The double convoluted bag has an inheritely high spring rate whick is why they work so well on A-arm front suspensions. You will definately want the bag to be under about a 1.5:1 leverage. Meaning, if the rearend moves 1 1/2", then the bag should move 1". From there you can play with bag placement to change how the truck will ride and handle if you would like.
GMracer   +1y
hmm, for some reason I always felt behind the axle was better than bag on bar. So you're saying I'm better off mounting the bag 3/4" of the way back on say the lower bar. Don't mount it behind the axle?
BioMax   +1y
I have to assume that when you say "behind the axle" you are talking about mounting the bag to the axle on a mount that happens to be behind it. If that is the case, then no, don't mount the bag behind the axle. If you are refering to a cantilever bar that is mounted behind the axle, then yes, mount the bag behind the axle. You just don't want to mount the bag in a 1:1 configuration of any sort. It is simply too much spring rate. There are MANY people that feel that mounting the bags that way is fine, but if you were to call the Firestone tech dept. they would tell you to mount the bag in leverage or run a sleeve style bag (which has a 2:1 ratio built in)
GMracer   +1y
well that is why I was going to run a sleeve. I don't feel a canti or leverage setup would be sufficient enough for a high horsepower truck, I'm talking 700+hp In which is why I was going to run the sleeeves, shockwaves, and adjustable shocks.

So with the canti setup nixxed, and the bag on axle nixxed, only thing left would be bag on bar, but I'm not sure that would give me enough room, let me load a picture of how the rear is setup so you can see.