Mad Dirt In My Paint!!!

3M actually came to give us a demo on their new products, I asked him what he thought about wet sanding clear coat runs. We had arguements in the shop that they should be blocked down with 800 or 1000, he then told me that he actually start the cut with 600, cutting it half down and then hits it with 800 lightly and 1000 1500. He said it may sound like a lot but it is much faster than using 1000 then 1500.... So I tried it and found it did cut faster with an occasional scratch, I wouldnt do it on black just light colors, white and so forth.... I've decided to take it what it's worth the paint is so bright I'm just going to buff what I can and leave it be.

im not a fan of buffing(it sucks)..and 4 coats dont really mean anything as far as how much is actually on it...4 coats for one person could equal 2 of someone else..i would cut it flat with 600 and re-clear it..but try to get ur dirt issue taken care of before you do that obviously..but if you do end up having to buff the whole thing out..i prefer 1500(1200 at the most) followed up by 3m trizact 3000 to get out most of your 1500 scratches, then buff out with your prefered system (i use meguires solo)

ok, from the looks of the pictures, it definately is a dirty shop situation....... i can see bondo sanding dust on all the top surfaces of all the stuff in that garage,having the windows open just scattered all the sanding dust across your job like snow! if u move everying out, or in a corner of the shop, covered it all with plastic, blew out the shop the day before, let it settle, then wet it all down the next day and plastic all the walls and ceiling, close the window unless u have a filter on one of them, then paint, and you will be ok,...... as far as the fish eyes/ paint seperation, read the label and see if you can let the wax n grease dry on the panel/ evaporate off, or has to be wiped off after, use clean towels to put the wax n grease on, and wipe it all off with new clean towels, and rotate the wipe off towels, or use new ones every foot or so, that should take care of that prob......
scotty
http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z85/www_eyecandycustoms_net/

Originally posted by Severed701



im not a fan of buffing(it sucks)..and 4 coats dont really mean anything as far as how much is actually on it...4 coats for one person could equal 2 of someone else..i would cut it flat with 600 and re-clear it..but try to get ur dirt issue taken care of before you do that obviously..but if you do end up having to buff the whole thing out..i prefer 1500(1200 at the most) followed up by 3m trizact 3000 to get out most of your 1500 scratches, then buff out with your prefered system (i use meguires solo)

The 3m trizac paper is really REALLY nice, but its also very expensive. I have also liked going old school and using a wool pad to polish. It can be dangerous if you dont know what your doing, but the wool re flows the clear real nice, and brings the shine up fast.

overall its not bad. we just did a single stage truck that came out worse at my shop. guy wanted quick and cheap. running your hand over it, it was like sandpaper. we went over it in 1200 wet. with a bit of soap in the water. and then 3000 3M wet. buff and polish and it was really really nice. you should be good. and a good tip, but requires patience and practice, is for nibs/specs and runs, use a razor blade. sounds bad, but if you run it at a drag with the edge following behind, and dont go sideways it will take just the highs down. without taking much of the rest around it down. works for runs too. make sure to 1200 all the scuffs from the blade when youre done, they will show in the buff. and the 3000 wont get them.

i agree with the plastic trick. will help alot. i say leave what you have unless you break though the clear into the color. if you do, touch up the color and reclear the whole panel. then go back to buffing. its a long process to get these garage jobs nice after, but its worth it. good job.

ALOT OFF GOOD IDEAS BUT ONE THAT EVERYONE IS MISSING IS STATIC TRY GROUNDING THE PARTS WITH A CHAIN TO THE GROUND SOUNDS DUMB BUT IT WILL HELP YOU

I've never heart the static theroy, sounds like a powder coating thing... Yeah after I slept on the work and went back out to the shop I looked at my garage and noticed I really needed to clean it better than what I did. I just got anxious and wanted to see the color laid out. I guess I'm just in for a lot more work. I hung all my part out it bright sunlight and the dirt is hardly noticable in this bright paint, so I will be safe buffing it all out.

I always use new rags, I actualy used probably 8 sq foot rags to make sure all the dirt was gone. I know the window was the cause of this problem now.

Originally posted by baggedwagon69



ALOT OFF GOOD IDEAS BUT ONE THAT EVERYONE IS MISSING IS STATIC TRY GROUNDING THE PARTS WITH A CHAIN TO THE GROUND SOUNDS DUMB BUT IT WILL HELP YOU

not a powder coating thing.. this really works.. ever notice when you wax and grease before your final paint that you can hear static between the towels and the panels well that will draw everthing to that panel. a chain touchin the ground will cause the panels to loose electic charge which will help on attracting dirt. but this wont help if your shop is really dirty anyways.

yeah ive heard about people grounding out cars in the booth and it makes sense..but ive always had good luck just using some anti-stat cleaning agent as a final wipe..most paint companies have one

So for painting my cab i've decided to do a couple things different. I'm going to move as much stuff in the shop to one spot as possible and cover it with plastic. For the rafters I'm going to attach plastic to maintain that dust. For the rest I'm going to water down to keep all the dust from flying. I'm going to use two 20" box fans blowing out of the garage door. For the openings beside them I'm going to use cardboard and tape up all the cracks and whatever. For the side windows I have filters to keep the air coming in clean and not huge gusts of wind at once.

You guys think this will do the job?