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Body work and Paint \  first time body work...help

first time body work...help

Body work and Paint Q & A
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Tacon19s   +1y
The deadline to have my truck finished is approaching FAST and I am realizing that I may have to do some of the body work to get the truck decent to drive. In october i will be getting married and then moving to Jville for welding school in november so the truck has to be finished by october. I have never done bodywork and frankly I am a little intimidated by it. I dont think I will have the money to pay someone to do it so I may have to myself. I have some small dents on the bed and on the cab and some shaving to do. Bare with me......what is the correct process to fixing dents and shaving shit? I will probably go out and get some books on body work but I wanted some insight from guys who do it all the time and could throw me some pointers that prob wouldnt be covered in a book. I want the shit done right...no cracking! any help is appreciated
smithchassis   +1y
save some money and get it done after welding school.
smithchassis   +1y
save some money and get it done after welding school. Just study those books as much as you can, for small dents you can use metal glaze then block it down even(sanding iin both directions with a sanding block at 45 degree angles until flat... for shaving, you weld as slow as you can not to warp... wait like 30 seconds in between tacks if you want... then knock the welds down flat... kitty hair it, knock the kitty hair flat... then a little bondo... knock that down flat... then metal glaze the whole area. then block it, then primer, then block the whole truck and primer it one color.
lx4life   +1y
On the shaving deal, make sure you use fiberglass it is less like to crack if done correct, and it is water proof, when you get ready the prep for welding clean the area real good and make sure you have a good ground close to where you are welding. The way I learned is to jump in and try it, you can always grind it out and redo. The best way to learn is doing it.
Tacon19s   +1y
hmmm, dude I just dont want the truck to look like poop when I start driving it...not to mention it will be 5 diff colors if i dont do anything body wise.....maybe i will go check out the "rattle can paint jobs" thread!!!lol
Tacon19s   +1y
Edited: 6/13/2008 10:08:00 AM by Tacon19s

Originally posted by smithchassis



save some money and get it done after welding school. Just study those books as much as you can, for small dents you can use metal glaze then block it down even(sanding iin both directions with a sanding block at 45 degree angles until flat... for shaving, you weld as slow as you can not to warp... wait like 30 seconds in between tacks if you want... then knock the welds down flat... kitty hair it, knock the kitty hair flat... then a little bondo... knock that down flat... then metal glaze the whole area. then block it, then primer, then block the whole truck and primer it one color.

WOW, I knew there was a reason I had planned to pay someone to do it. thats a bit overwelming. whats the best brand bondo and metal glaze to use and how many cats will I need to skin to have enough kitty hair??lol As far as the dents go, after I smooth over the metal glaze what needs to be done to it, just primed over? when blocking the whole truck, do I have to "block it" or can I just use like an orbital sander or something???
smithchassis   +1y
lol kitty hair is shortstrand fiberglass... we always use evercoat brand... all will need hardeners... too much hardner it will dry before you have a chance to spread it, not enough hardener and it will never dry lol, the temperature has to be right where your working with it, if your outside or in a garage it has to be a nice middle of the road temperature, not too hot and not too cold... in between 65 to 90 degrees is best, as far as blocking the whole truck you done necessarily have too, but blocking is what makes vehicles completely straight from panel to panel, it shows high and low spots... but if your just looking to get by... you can primer without blocking... just scuff the rest of the paint with some 320... or finer grit paper... then primer it... but when buyign primer make sure its a good primer/sealer because if not... primer soaks up rain, grease from fingers, or anything it can and will wreak havoc on all your hard work... hope this helps... BTW... I dont even do my own finishing bodywork... i just rough it in... and send it to my bodyman... i have no patience for the stuff... lol

GOOD LUCK and DONT BE SCARED of it, i used to look at wiring and be afraid... now i can wire a full vehicle from scratch... you could try bodywork... and love it...
Tacon19s   +1y
thanks man, and it does help alot.
uaintlow   +1y
I WOULD NOT USE KITTY HAIR...THAT SHIT DRIES HARD AS A ROCK AND THEN YOU START SANDING IT AND YOU GET FIBERGLASS ALL OVER YOU AND START ITCHING.ITS BEST TO USE RAGE GOLD OR EXTREME BOTH BY EVERCOAT AND THEN KNOCK IT DOWN WHILE IT IS STILL GREEN ( BEFORE IT HARDENS WITH 40 GRIT).THEN RUFF IT OUT WITH 80 GRIT AND THEN GO BACK AND USE METALGLAZE AND KNOCK THAT DOWN WITH 180 AND THEN 240 THE WHOLE AREA BEFORE PRIMER.ALWAYS SAND IN AN X TYPE PATTERN, GO ONE DIRECTION FOR A LITTLE WHILE THEN THE OTHER.FOR A BEGINNER TO FEEL IF IT IS STR8 ITS BEST TO USE A PAPER TOWEL,IT MAKES IT EASIER TO FEEL.
SSM-Webmaster   +1y
Edited: 6/13/2008 12:37:17 PM by kr1s

Originally posted by smithchassis



lol kitty hair is shortstrand fiberglass... we always use evercoat brand... all will need hardeners... too much hardner it will dry before you have a chance to spread it, not enough hardener and it will never dry lol, the temperature has to be right where your working with it, if your outside or in a garage it has to be a nice middle of the road temperature, not too hot and not too cold... in between 65 to 90 degrees is best, as far as blocking the whole truck you done necessarily have too, but blocking is what makes vehicles completely straight from panel to panel, it shows high and low spots... but if your just looking to get by... you can primer without blocking... just scuff the rest of the paint with some 320... or finer grit paper... then primer it... but when buyign primer make sure its a good primer/sealer because if not... primer soaks up rain, grease from fingers, or anything it can and will wreak havoc on all your hard work... hope this helps... BTW... I dont even do my own finishing bodywork... i just rough it in... and send it to my bodyman... i have no patience for the stuff... lol

GOOD LUCK and DONT BE SCARED of it, i used to look at wiring and be afraid... now i can wire a full vehicle from scratch... you could try bodywork... and love it... kitty hair is actually long strand fiberglass and marglass is the short strand fiberglass body filler... also you do drive a mini and as most projects go their paint may not look the most attractive at first but the important part of a mini is that the suspension is done right and that your able to cruise it...dont worry bout your outward appearance the majority of the community is scrappin by on rolling their spare change to finish their next mod... for the most part people will know and understand whats up when they see ur ride layin hard with out a paint job and for those who give you shit FUCK em..