Engine building? Have a couple q's....

you do have to gap your own rings. i used a specific ring gapper tool that files down the rings before i switched to total-seal rings where you dont have gaps. i imagine you probably have normal rings so you check them by setting the ring in the cylinder by itself and sheck the gap created. it has to be filed down to gap specified with the rings.

ring gap on the 22r is .005-.014 you put your rings in 1 at a time, then put your piston in upside down part way to make the ring level. then just grab a feeler gauge & measure the gap. most of the kits are already good to go unless you bought a real cheap set. i prefer sta-lube's moly engine assembly lube on the whole rotating assembly & it's cam & rocker tappet safe. i also like to use it generously on the gears of the oil pump. there's no real way to safely prime 22r's so once you install it, i've learned one of the best ways you can do it is to take the valve cover off & add your oil, by pouring it all over the rocker shafts & down the timing chain area while you're filling up the oil for the first time. also 22r heads only take a single stage head bolt torque that goes from the center bolts out (just like anything else), but the head bolts are torque to yield (1 time use)

hopefully most of that makes sence to you & if not hit me up anytime because i worked as a machinist for almost 4 years rebuilding engines & i still have all my books at home.

comes out being only a couple hundred extra for someone else to do it, so needless to say the reassurance (and warranty) are worth the extra cash.

thanks everyone for the help, surely someone else was wondering or will wonder about this again later on.