Proportioning Valve - Can i take off that valve thing?

It is nice but will it have the same thread type and size as my brake lines? Probably just for domestic vehicles.........Speedway motors one>>

thatll work. i used something like that on my 62 falcon when i put 4 wheel disc on it

Originally posted by Tacon19s



It is nice but will it have the same thread type and size as my brake lines? Probably just for domestic vehicles.........Speedway motors one>>



those come with 1/8"NPT ports,so you'll have to get an adaptor fitting. I just put one on a '34 Ford truck that I'm building.

Edited: 7/29/2008 1:44:37 PM by corey0814

many people say they're fine with a "T" but i wouldn't trust my life (or anyone else's) off anyone's word. under normal driving circumstances with a "T" you'd be fine, but completely removing it creates a safety issue because unexpected rear lockup/fishtailing is just flat out dangerous (& ignorant) when it can be fixed with only a $38 part.

see that's a load sensing valve that opens more as more weight is added to the bed & by completely removing it, you're giving it full fluid flow & pressure at all times. adjusting your shoes might work, but when you go to an empty parking lot to test out how much adjustment they need (by doing mid speed hard braking tests) it'd be easier to turn a knob, then remove the wheels & drums. with the adjustable valve, it can be done in about 10-20 hard lockups which is about 1-2 hours.

here's what i used:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG3905&N=700+4294922533+4294918719+115&autoview=sku

also you can get the fittings for less than a dollar each from almost anywhere...napa, grainger, industrial hydraulic supply houses, etc...

I will look into the thread sizing and get it if it will bolt up. Since we are on brakes....I have more ???s. I need to know the best way to clean the master cylinder out and be ready to bolt up. It needs to be cleaned out cuz its been in a dirty ass shop for almost 4 years. And my other question is how to get the whole system functional again. there is no fluid in the whole system obviously. I hope I am answering my question my saying this but is it as simple as getting everything tightened down and pouring brake fluid in the resevoir and just pumping the hell out of the brakes and doing the normal bleeding procedure?

Originally posted by corey0814



Edited: 7/29/2008 1:44:37 PM by corey0814

many people say they're fine with a "T" but i wouldn't trust my life (or anyone else's) off anyone's word. under normal driving circumstances with a "T" you'd be fine, but completely removing it creates a safety issue because unexpected rear lockup/fishtailing is just flat out dangerous (& ignorant) when it can be fixed with only a $38 part.

see that's a load sensing valve that opens more as more weight is added to the bed & by completely removing it, you're giving it full fluid flow & pressure at all times. adjusting your shoes might work, but when you go to an empty parking lot to test out how much adjustment they need (by doing mid speed hard braking tests) it'd be easier to turn a knob, then remove the wheels & drums. with the adjustable valve, it can be done in about 10-20 hard lockups which is about 1-2 hours.

here's what i used:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG3905&N=700+4294922533+4294918719+115&autoview=sku



totally agree bro, thats why I started this thread. SAFETY

i mounted mine on the inside of the frame rail & just cut the line where i needed it. here's a couple flare tools that are pretty cheap & then you don't need adapters at all. i just went ahead & used 1/8" flares & brake line flare nuts...

sorry if i sounded rude, just people removing safety equipment bothers the hell out of me (airbag steering wheels are ok though )

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925139+4294925137+115+4294909979

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40878

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294924496+4294846156+115+4294842775

i could be wrong about that part number for the flare nuts

Originally posted by Tacon19s



I will look into the thread sizing and get it if it will bolt up. Since we are on brakes....I have more ???s. I need to know the best way to clean the master cylinder out and be ready to bolt up. It needs to be cleaned out cuz its been in a dirty ass shop for almost 4 years. And my other question is how to get the whole system functional again. there is no fluid in the whole system obviously. I hope I am answering my question my saying this but is it as simple as getting everything tightened down and pouring brake fluid in the resevoir and just pumping the hell out of the brakes and doing the normal bleeding procedure?

Guess I scared everyone off with that one?

you're right, just bolt it on, & bleed them regular. start with the closest wheel...LF, then RF, then LR, then RR. if it has a bunch of crap in it, i'd just clean it out with compressed air, & some thinner on a rag on the outside only. thinner on the inside (or using the parts washer) would eat away at the seals. you could just fill it on the bench with no lines hooked up to it to bleed out any crap w/o getting any of it into your lines &/or wheel cylinders.