Another 3/4, 1 ton SRW hub question.

Since the pivot of the SRW front hub is much closer to the wheel mounting surface. And the wheel no longer swings as much as it does with the dually front hub as it is turned. Does the firewall still need to be clearanced when running the longer arms and SRW (3/4 ton) hubs?

Good question, I am now curious on the swing of it as well. I don't think that would make it so you don't have to tub, but has to change a bit.

I know on one of the square builds here. The owner installed a set of MMW longer arms and 3/4 hubs. When all was said and done he claimed no cutting of the firewall at all.... That would be awesome if it would be the same for a 94-99. If you look at the swing geometry, it is much tighter than the dually hub, 3" of less swing.... I will pick up a pair of hubs soon and go that route. If no one chimes in I should have info to post by December. I'm in FL, so no winters down here.

Did you buy a set of mmw arms? I want some so bad just cant see dropping that much coin on some, nor can I afford to. I have to do something as My 24's dont clear the fenders. Need to be at least a half an inch narrower on each side

Yeah they are beautiful pieces! But.......... I too can't afford to drop that coin for them. I will end up fabbing longer arms to address for the SRW hubs. Man all the work on your fenders and still needing a 1/2"? Why not do what Townasty did and cut a square out around the lower ball joint and sliding the ball joint in the 1/2"? Or if you can he said he moved his back 3/4" and welded it back. The only obstacle would be if there isn't enough elongation adjustment left at the upper arms. Then you would have to shorten them just a little. Would save you some big coin.

Do you have a welder? Pull your arms, cut out a

I would but its not that easy. If the control arms were perpendicular to the frame, it would be but they are angled back. And different angles back between the top and bottom arms. If i just took 1/2" out it would bring the wheel forward in the wheel opening and not sure what effects there would be with the geometry of the camber/caster bump steer etc. it may make no difference but being lowered so much it is already wacked out. It may make it worse or better, who knows. The proper way to do it would be to move the center of the ball joint in on the same plane as the other side with no for/aft movement. If I am going through all of that measuring and calculating, i am going to build new arms for srw hubs and reap the small but beneficial changes such as more lift, no expensive dually rotors, and better shock placement, etc.

Maybe I am way overthinking this but I am keeping safety and reliability in mind as I tow with it all the time and carry my family. As brought up in another recent thread the change in firewall clearance may be achieved too without the use of the dually rotor with the hub extension. The srw hub will bring the swivel point closer hence less for/ aft movement of the wheel from lock to lock steering. Not sure on how much it affects it either, but has to be some.

Sorry for the long rambling, just thinking out loud...

Nothing wrong with safety! I think the best all around would be the SRW hubs and new arms. I also think ip they would offer less stress to the ball joints as far as weight is concerned. Not that it's a problem but it is a plus. Either way safety and doing it right is the best way...

Update.....I am finishing installing the SRW front hubs. I lengthened the A-arms 3". I'd say it is equivelent to shortening the stock arms 1" with DRW hubs. Lift is definitely more with the longer arms. The firewall still needs to be clearanced, But the frame is no longer an issue with the tires hitting with 22's or 24's when turning. Overall, I would do it again.