2 link controversy....

I think what people need to understand is that what they hear on the internet is simply someone elses opinion and we all know what opinions are like.
Take it with a grain of salt.
My opinion is that two links are not safe because they apply undew stress to the weakest point causing eventual failure.solid mounting just means it transfers the energy elsewhere.
Reverse four link is hard to master but most negative side affects can be minimized on a average power application.I would build one but only if there was a good reason.

me personally, i couldnt care less if u run a 2 or 4 link. i'm not goin 2 b drivin n e 1 elses truck on here but mine. so do what u wanna do. i'm runnin a triangulated 4 link and i got good friends that are runnin 2 links and they havent had the 1st problem outta theres. i just prefer the ride and handling of a 4 link over a 2 link.

it has about as much in common with any two link on a bagged mini or fullsize as I have in common with Hannah Montana.

Originally posted by BioMax



The first person to talk shit on this thread will be banned from my forum. Period! We CAN have an intelligent conversation without the drama.

I have posted the pros and cons so many times that I'm begining to wonder if anyone even reads them.

A well designed reverse 4-link is worse than a mediocre 2-link. At least on a 2-link the bars are facing forward. The major weak link of the 2-link is it's inability to articulate. If you want to argue that point and post pictures of your 2-link "hitting sides" then understand that the only reason that it is doing so is because something is flexing. A 2-link is a GIANT sway bar that just so happens to also be an axle and because of this it will never handle well. Again, if you are going to tell me that your truck handles great with a 2-link, you don't know what a good handling vehicle is. I will NEVER build a reverse 4-link ever again, but I might build a ladder-bar (a style of 2-link) on a muscle car someday. I would prefer to 4-link it, but that just opens a huge can of worms when it comes time for dialing it all in.

There was a 2-link/reverse 4-link bashing post in the suspension forum a little while ago, someone needs to find my list of truths on it and post it here.

there is absolutley no side to side articulation on a 2 link like the one pictured. weve done over 10 setups like this and have had no problems... people want to keep gas tanks and people dont care about side to side all that much

C10s arnt bagged from the factory either, the '2link' they came equipped with only saw maybe 6" of travel on the largest bumps, not to mention theyre super long, triangulated, and actually made somewhat flimsy so they can twist to articulate. Lets try not to defend something that really should have no place in the aftermarket adjustable suspension world.

Originally posted by smithchassis



Originally posted by BioMax



The first person to talk shit on this thread will be banned from my forum. Period! We CAN have an intelligent conversation without the drama.

I have posted the pros and cons so many times that I'm begining to wonder if anyone even reads them.

A well designed reverse 4-link is worse than a mediocre 2-link. At least on a 2-link the bars are facing forward. The major weak link of the 2-link is it's inability to articulate. If you want to argue that point and post pictures of your 2-link "hitting sides" then understand that the only reason that it is doing so is because something is flexing. A 2-link is a GIANT sway bar that just so happens to also be an axle and because of this it will never handle well. Again, if you are going to tell me that your truck handles great with a 2-link, you don't know what a good handling vehicle is. I will NEVER build a reverse 4-link ever again, but I might build a ladder-bar (a style of 2-link) on a muscle car someday. I would prefer to 4-link it, but that just opens a huge can of worms when it comes time for dialing it all in.

There was a 2-link/reverse 4-link bashing post in the suspension forum a little while ago, someone needs to find my list of truths on it and post it here.

there is absolutley no side to side articulation on a 2 link like the one pictured. weve done over 10 setups like this and have had no problems... people want to keep gas tanks and people dont care about side to side all that much

they may not care about hitting sides but how many driveways have you gone up and your truck not rock sideways unless you go up evey driveway at a 90 degree angle you need side to side movement out of your suspension

Alright, this is already turning into a "I like 2-links/reverse 4-links cause they work good on my truck" thread.

I am not posting an opinion, these are fact...

Even a perfectly designed reverse 4-link is still completely counter productive, it will never allow the vehicle to handle, stop or accelerate with any kind of performance. They are only good to hold the truck off of the ground, nothing more.

A 2-link is not the same as a truck trailing arm.

A well designed 2-link is better than a well designed reverse 4-link.

A 2-link won't allow any articulation, but a 4-link will.

A 2-link will "plant" the tires to the ground under acceleration, but a 4-link will actually lift the tires off of the ground.

A 4-link is only considered a suspension design to minitruckers, there isn't a book out there that would even acknowledge it.

A 2-link (ladder bar) is usually only used on drag cars and minitrucks.

NASCAR does not use a 2-link, it's a truck trailing arm. Not the same.


If you do not agree with these facts, that's fine, it doesn't change the fact that they are true.

Also this does NOT mean that you should not run a 2-link or reverse 4-link. There are many, many trucks out there successfully using both systems. Appreciate that I am not here to tell you all how to build suspensions that are wrong. For over 3 years now, I have been offering up free information to anyone that asks so that everyone can make an informed decision as to what system to use instead of just taking someone's "opinion" as to what is best. If you still choose to run a 2-link or a reverse 4-link and need help figuring something out, I will still help, just as I did for the author of this thread.

And to the person that thinks that I will not allow them to defend their suspension system without kicking them off my forum, you are wrong. You can defend your suspension design... without talking shit.

What I don't want is everyone's opinion of how their suspension works so well, but they have no idea of what a truly nice suspension system drives like. I get customers that tell me all the time that their truck rides pretty nice, but they just want it cleaned up so that it is safer. Once they drive the vehicle after we bagged it with the right bag and nice shocks, they change their tune and realize how poorly the old system drove. I welcome anyone to come out here and ride in one of our vehicles and realize how a genuinely nice driving vehicle really drives.

see max, you need to write a book. i'd buy it, i have a couple suspension books and they might as well be in chinese. they talk more about tensil strength of steel than my pea brain can comprehend, i don't plan on becoming a metalurgist. i've taken way more from you're posts than 60 bucks worth of books.

Max, first off, thanks for all your your help and knowledge you are willing to offer. Second, am I welcomed to come out and drive the Nash, lol.

Alright MAX, here's my question. I have a Stock floored 4 door Blazer that I want to keep rear seat and the floor as low as possible. The current rear suspension setup is a forward 4 link mounted to the 4" tall frame. The bars are 30" long and sit at a 13 degree angle when laid out. Laid out, the wheels look centered for the most part, but lifted up they roll back about 2". I don't plan on ever lifting higher than 3" off the ground, but even then it is already rolled back far enough that I can't leave it this way. It's obvious that it does this cuz when lifted, the bars are then straight. What I need to do is be able to put the tabs on the rearend lower to have the bars more parallel to ground when laid out.

How far below the axle would it be ok to lower the axle tabs? I know that it would be A LOT of torque on the arms and tabs from the axle trying to rotate on the mounts, but I can't think of a better way. Any suggestions???

Right now the top axle mount is even with the axle and the bottom is about 5" lwer than the axle tube. ( normal axle tabs bought with 4-link kit)

Thanks for your input. My other choice is to do independent or a 2-link with the bar mount REALLY far below the axle..