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Chevy/GMC Trucks \  S Dime Fuel Pump Problem w/ Tank in Bed

S Dime Fuel Pump Problem w/ Tank in Bed

Chevy/GMC Trucks Make Specific
views 237
replies 11
following 7
 
uncivlized1   +1y
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After hitting a random raised bump in the road a few weeks back and busting a hole in my aluminum gas tank from Devious, I put the stock tank in the bed of the truck until I could get the other welded back up. Ever since I moved it into the bed I have had a problem with the fuel pump shutting down on me. If I drive it during the day time and it it sunny or hot out it will shut down after about 15 minutes of driving. I can let it sit for a few minutes and it will crank up and run fine for a little further then it will shut down again. However, if I drive it on a day when it is overcast/rainy or at night I can drive it for as long as I want and it drives perfectly.I am assuming that since the fuel pump is on top of the tank that it is getting hot and shutting down on me since I only have the problem on days when it is hot or at least sunny. I thought by making a shield to go over it that it might help it but it made no difference and if anything made it worse so that would lead me to assume that the shield was actually trapping heat rather than blocking it.

Has anyone ever had this problem or have any insight on it????
unfadeble   +1y
Is the charcoal canister hooked up and working properly?

z71mazda   +1y
my dakota did the same thing with my tank in the bed it builds pressure in the tank and throws a relay and you let the pressure bleed off and it will fire right back up i just took my fume return hose off and never had a problem again
uncivlized1   +1y
Originally posted by unfadeble



Is the charcoal canister hooked up and working properly?



Yes the charcoal canister is still hooked up

unfadeble   +1y
Run it on a odb2 analyzer and see if any trouble codes come up. If you cant then just pop off the the fuel line going from the fuel pump to the charcoal canister. Then go for a ride. Also check for loose wires were you spliced the wires you might have a loose wire. Causing the fuel tank not to vent properly. I doubt in your case its an issue but if you feel like it check the ground to your tail lights to.
unfadeble   +1y
Run it on a odb2 analyzer and see if any trouble codes come up. If you cant then just pop off the the fuel line going from the fuel pump to the charcoal canister. Then go for a ride. Also check for loose wires were you spliced the wires you might have a loose wire. Causing the fuel tank not to vent properly. I doubt in your case its an issue but if you feel like it check the ground to your tail lights to.
insaneautoconcepts   +1y
Yea I agree with the above. Just pull the canister line off. It just a problem with pressure inside your tank. Seen it a few times with our fuel cells that the customer wanted to use the stock canister.
LOWLIFE   +1y
It'll run like shit without the charcoal canister. Tap in a small breather tube or filter on top of the tank to relieve the pressure. Simple with the plastic tanks.
insaneautoconcepts   +1y
I hate to differ with you shane but None of ours have had a running issue with the canister deleted. If you want looks then just place a hose on the end and position it along the others from the pump. All that canister does is recycle any fuel gases from the tank. When you delete the canister you will have to plug /or cap the other end on the engine side so that you wont have a vaccuum leak. That might be where you are getting your running issue.
LOWLIFE   +1y
Hmm. Funny mine did.
Made it about 1 mile with the canister and began to run like shit. Put the canister back on and it ran perfect for 5 years.