Trouble with cans

Can you post some pics of your setup in the front with the tire off??

So I took a look at it and nothing is rubbing any where I am going to bolt them straight to the body and see where I get from that.

Ok so I finally got the front bottom bracket off since they were rusted on and did a little modification. Now the bottom bracket screws all the way up to the shaft it self. Dropped me another 1/2 an inch or more. A-arm still dosent touch but I am going to bolt the can directly to the car and go from there. Im still open to suggestions

For the umpteenth time, can you get us pictures without the wheel on? If so, we can definately help, otherwise we're just throwing out blind possabilities. A picture is worth a thousand words.

"Help me... help you. Help me, help you. "

Edited: 10/1/2008 7:18:42 PM by TufLuv80

So I finally bolted the can straight to the car it made a pretty big difference.

Alright, definately a start. I was looking for a side view picture of the can with the tire off. I didn't have my cans bolted to the frame, but thinking about it, I don't see why not.

In the picture it looks like you're uca is now resting on the top of the tower. I'd cut the top wider and once you know it's enough that it's not resting on the tower anymore, weld a "cover" in just for structual purposes.

For reference, here is how much mine comes through with my prelude on hydraulics. Case-in-point, the hydraulic cylinder comes up through the strut tower thus a lower drop with higher lift.

Damn man... I keep thinking about doing hydro's on the Civic instead of bags, I just don't know how they work at all. Your pics make me want to more.

Edited: 10/1/2008 8:19:36 PM by TOWNLOW

Edited: 10/1/2008 8:17:21 PM by TOWNLOW



ORIGINALLY POSTED BY starion88esir:

Alright, definately a start. I was looking for a side view picture of the can with the tire off. I didn't have my cans bolted to the frame, but thinking about it, I don't see why not.

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You will see in a couple months why you should NOT bolt the Cans, ANYTHING for that matter, straight to the body. Honda, and every other automobile put rubber bushings in the strut assembly for a reason. When the suspension goes up and down, the bottom of the strut goes in and away from the body. If you bolt something solid there, the bottom of the strut will still go in and out, but will be bending the strut towers in the process. I've repaired cars that were cylindered WITH the bushing mounts and they STILL tear the sheetmetal out of the car. You can't pivot off 4 bolts. There needs to be a pivot point in the setup or it WILL tear. If I can find some repair before and after pics, I will try and post them.It's easiest to actually see the amount of movement the strut does by watching a HYDRAULIC EQUIPPED car lift up and down and watch the cylinder move back and forth in engine bay. Derek, post a pic if you got one..

Didn't think about that, my cans are long gone. Mine had some vey minor tearing at the bolt holes, thought maybe it was something the p.o. did to the car. I welded them up, but would still like to replace it with new metal. How do you fix them when needed? and do you reinforce them to accommodate for an adjustable suspension?