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Nissan Trucks \  HARDBODY TRAD. B/D

HARDBODY TRAD. B/D

Nissan Trucks Make Specific
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unusualfabrication   +1y
Originally posted by Ice



and your radius bars.... you can either move them over and up after z'n the frame or run some reverse bars.. or just get some tublar lower arms...



I'm working on the tubular lowers right now that eliminate the factory strut rods. Its a steel shaft that replaces the lower control arm bushings. They are precision machined to slip right into the existing bushing holes.
low mazda   +1y
when are these gonna be ready and how much are they gonna run? Are they gonna have tabs to weld to the frame to make them a traditional A-arm? Also, if you could Chris could you post up a picture of two of what you are buidling?

We are doing a 720 right now that needs lowers.
unusualfabrication   +1y
I have some pics of the new shafts and the balljoint cups on my myspace account but not on here. It won't have tabs to make it a double mount just a long steel shaft that replaces the lower bushing. It will get welded to the crossmember and there weill be a guset that runs from the frame to the new shaft for strenght. Price wise I always try to keep my arms between $500-$600 a set so thats what I am going to shoot for.
low mazda   +1y
500-600 just for lowers is pretty pricey. I think we are gonna modify some stocks with tabs to make them a traditional A-arm
unusualfabrication   +1y
Thats for a full set, uppers and lowers.
low mazda   +1y
oh, OK. didn't get that. Would love to see pics of them, but I can't get into myspace here at work. Can you send me some pics of them? If so I'll give you my email.
unusualfabrication   +1y
I'll send you what I have on my blackberry whats your email?
low mazda   +1y
IM sent
danieljpeter   +1y
Another option, if you don't want to Z the frame is to move the body mounts on the core support up. You can section 3" out of them perfectly. I think this is easier than messing with the frame, but that's my opinion.

I ran a 1982 Nissan 200sx radiator on mine. It fits under the hood well with a 3" body drop without Z'ing the frame. The inlets and outlets line up good with the stock radiator hoses. I think I just had to trim the upper hose a bit and they hooked right up. It is thicker than the stock radiator, and provided plenty of cooling. It ends up close to the fan, so you have to mount it well (no zip ties!) Drove it arizona and back in the summer for those havasu runs back in the day, no overheating.

You have plenty of options...
LndRanger86   +1y
thanks. ice; what about moving the radius arms over? any pics ? i'm probably gonna just make my lowers into a-arms but who knows.i pnly want to run an 18" in the front so i won't need to much room with the tubs.